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Learning to move faster and more dynamically (Read 7827 times)

Danny

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I'm trying to think of a decent video that demonstrates this style well, anyone?

The opening "dream" sequence to Stone Monkey demonstrates some dynamic movement.

Not quite what I was thinking movement wise; it is dynamic, but vertical...will have a think.

i.munro

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Climbing mainly indoors in London (as sadly I do) I think of myself as horribly static.
On a visit to TCA Glasgow sometime ago however, I looked like some sort of slappy jumping monkey.

Don't know what that tells us  :shrug: perhaps that Dumby basalt suits a static approach ?

Sasquatch

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Can we clarify between "Dynoing", "Dynamic", and "Deadpointing"?  I consider Deadpointing to be dynamic.

moose

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I suspect my style owes much to basic physiology and background - tall (so rarely have to dyno), thin (so can hang off small holds and slowly mull over my options), indecisive and fearful by nature.  I also started out doing trad and bouldering on my own at oft deserted places like Goldsborough, Crag Willas, far flung bits of Shafoe.  Long, lonesome and painful hobbles back to my car soon put me off making any moves without being pretty certain I'd latch and hold the target.

Regarding the "cure".... well it's pretty hard to go against nature (I don't have a single fast-twitch muscle in my body, my climbing style is akin to an Anglepoise lamp collapsing).  What has helped to some extent though is steep bouldering and red-pointing on stuff with unhelpful holds.  Problems at the likes of the Bowderstone, routes at Kilnsey.  Anywhere with lots of flat un-positive holds and pinches - where I just can't hang off crimps and have to move fast before my fingers slide from the greasy slopes.

tomtom

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Can we clarify between "Dynoing", "Dynamic", and "Deadpointing"?  I consider Deadpointing to be dynamic.

+1

Danny

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Can we clarify between "Dynoing", "Dynamic", and "Deadpointing"?  I consider Deadpointing to be dynamic.

+1

Deadpoints and dynos are both forms of dynamic movement, all part of the gambit I'd say.

For a prime example of great dynamic movement, including use of the legs to generate momentum:



thekettle

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I think dynamic movement is easiest to practice indoors, the larger hand and footholds make generating momentum and latching holds easier. The best advice I've come across is in Dave Macleods Grumpy Monkey book where it describes 6 different ways to generate momentum, mostly initiated by the core.

There's definitely a tendency for indoor bouldering to feature big dynamic moves between reasonable holds, whereas outdoor bouldering favours much shorter snatches between poor holds, requiring more subtle use of momentum and a higher degree of accuracy (with both feet and hands), worth bearing in mind as you progress.

Clart

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Second, and far more important, it encourages you to use the free leg to generate momentum. In its most cartoon form this is what is now called a pogo (though I always called it a ninja kick), but actually little flicks of the leg are usually more subtly useful, mostly by providing an efficient means to adjust on holds.

If you climb with both feet on all the time you'll never learn this. 

I'm trying to think of a decent video that demonstrates this style well, anyone?

I think this is what you were after...


ghisino

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Funny weirdness related to "fast & dynamic movement", seen yesterday in the context of a training clinic being held at the gym where i work:

they were doing a silly game on the ground with a sort of ladder which was about 50 cm wide with rungs at different spacings.

The climbers were asked to put themselves in a four legged position with each hand in between two rungs and legs far apart outside the ladder, then "run" the ladder as fast as possible.
Rules:
the space between two rungs was supposed to be a "hand-target".
only one hand per target.
you can't skip targets.
you can't put your hands on the ladder's rungs.

the coach used a stopwatch and pushed the climbers to chase a personal record.
It looked very silly and quite fun.
they were alternating laps of this coordination game with speed laps on easy juggy routes.


additional context:
the clinic was aimed at representing a very generic "work capacity" day to be done early on a training plan - they also did tons of volume both on routes and boulders, and some general conditiuoning with weights, swiss balls, bodyweight exercises, etc...



 

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