[cowboyhat]

http://www.slate.com/articles/sports/sports_nut/2013/08/the_sports_gene_want_to_improve_your_aerobic_capacity_better_hope_you_have.html

This made me think about my training for climbing how my body responds, and which camp I might fall into.

It also serves to remind me that what works for someone else, might not work for me. You can be guided by what others do but a large part of the battle must be finding what works for yourself.

[Falling Down]

Good article...

 With 42 years under my belt I know I'm much better at picking heavy stuff up and putting it down again than anything remotely aerobic.  You only have to look at me (especially at the moment!) to realise that I'm not cut out for running, cycling or stamina routes.  That doesn't diminish the enjoyment I get from them but I know I'll struggle to be good with any of that stuff compared with mates who are naturally more suited.

It was really interesting doing my training Mark Twight and Rob from Gym Jones  and realising I'd probably perform pretty well in veteran Olympic Lifting compared to climbing.  But the former is a sport and the latter a lifestyle.

[Stubbs]

Good find, sounds like an interesting book, may have to pick up a copy.

Conversely to FD my body seems to have reacted better to a years consistent cycling than it ever has to 13 years of climbing!

[SA Chris]

There was a TV programme where they touched on this (can't remember the name, but it had that wierd looking bloke with glasses in it). Very Interesting.

[shark]

With 42 years under my belt I know I'm much better at picking heavy stuff up and putting it down again than anything remotely aerobic.  You only have to look at me (especially at the moment!) to realise that I'm not cut out for running, cycling or stamina routes. 

Weak excuse, FD. As any fule kno, so-called "stamina climbing" is in fact an anaerobic discipline.

Not quite true. Oxygen is used by the forearms in stamina climbing, it just isn't limited by the heart's capacity to pump it.

 

[Falling Down]

With 42 years under my belt I know I'm much better at picking heavy stuff up and putting it down again than anything remotely aerobic.  You only have to look at me (especially at the moment!) to realise that I'm not cut out for running, cycling or stamina routes. 

Weak excuse, FD. As any fule kno, so-called "stamina climbing" is in fact an anaerobic discipline.

True, but you know what I mean...

[tomtom]

Interesting. Reminds me how the Soviet Union used to choose their fighter pilots to get over the issue of blackign out when pulling high G's...

Whilst the USA invested in suits that pump up under high G load and stop blood going to the legs - the Russians just popped all their recruits in a Gforce simulator (those giant centrifuge things) and selected the people who didnt black out... some folk have a greater natural tolerance/ability..

[iain]

Sledge hammer approach that. I'd rather have the best pilots in a funny suit rather than the ones who could stay awake whilst being shot down.

On topic, so what I'd want to know is what's the best training method to go with given predispositions?