[Monolith]

OK so today was by no means ideal conditions to be trying this but I'd like to know any of the 'various methods' (NWB) for The Sting. I was pulling on with starting holds and came to put left toe on small circular dink with slight inward drop knee and right inside edge on the outer most of the 2 'main' edges. Pulled on fine, then the move to the crimp above was semi dynamic and throwing to that bastard was slightly unnerving given the obvious greasy conditions.

Grease aside, I'd like to hear of the selecta methods from those that have done it sil voos plate.

[Pantontino]

It has been done using just about every possible sequence you could conceptualise - all of them nails! You just have to find the one that fits you best (as far as beta goes, not much use I know). Another undergraded beast that regularly shuts down strong climbers.

[a dense loner]

well why don't you grade them properly? if grades are arrived at by consensus then this nonsense should be sorted out. fair enough the craftnant stuff isn't in a guide so take with a pinch of salt, but stuff like this (never tried so don't know) and smackhead and prob a lot of others should have proper grades, not welsh grades are harder grades. how mule and danny grade on their board is their business but outside should be one proper system

[Doylo]

Ha ha, go dense. Yes there are a few sandbags in Wales that i'm sure Simon will rectify in the next guide. When i first did the sting i'd only climbed V7 or something and was made up to do a V9, then i saw the guide and my heart sank. Anyway as far as beta is concerned i got my foot out left once established on the crimps and went up with my left hand to a good hold, sorry can't be more specific, it was 6 years ago.

[Pantontino]

Dense, there's no bullshit or macho bravado here, just an honest realisation that 'we' collectively got certain things wrong in the run up to the 04 guide. That guide was based upon a consensus - albeit a very reactionary and paranoid one. Remember, it's not so long since Wales grades were berated by certain high profile climbers for being soft.

Anyway, as my esteemed colleague, Doylo pointed out, it's nothing that can't be fixed next time around. I've got plans to open things up, hopefully with an online grade voting system, so every one, visitor or local, can have their say. You can't say fairer than that, no?

[Monolith]

In the garage building my 'sting specific' board as we speak.

[BenF]

Monolith, there is no way that you could possibly remember (let alone build a replica of) the moves of a problem that you have tried even as recently as yesterday.  I have never met anyone with such a goldfish like memory for moves.  You climb on-sight every attempt mate.

[Pantontino]

Ray Wood has a similar spatial dyslexia/sequence memory problem, but I know someone who tops it all. This poor lass is forced to carry a note pad with her own sequences written in it because she can't remember them, even if she is trying the same problem day after day!

[BenF]

  
Good idea.  Of course with Mono being such a 21st century boy, comfortable with all forms of media and technology, he should carry a palmtop with bluetooth earpiece to receive move by move verbal instructions from his beta/sequence database.

[Monolith]

  I wish it wasn't true.

[Andy F]

But it is true, and you know it. Maybe you need some decent tick marks, like lh, rh etc  bn

[BenF]

Hey, fuckin' ace new avatar Tom! 

[a dense loner]

thats ok then pantontino, wasn't having a go at you. it's just that i believe sandbagging to be the route of all evil. up as well as down

[ferret]

if u can do the 1st move yor in, for me udercut both hands, LF outside edge RF flag, LH intermediate then scarey crimp, swing LF to obvious heelhook out left, RH to small but v positive crimp just up n right of LH, then dyno to the top with ease, then say ouch (or words to that effect) and pull a pained expression while looking at yor left index finger.

[superfurrymonkey]

Was trying this today but Ferrets post has me confused as to the start, Ferret is matching the undercut but the guide say`s left hand lowest crimp right hand undercut, so which is it and what grade is it.

[Monolith]

Ferret is an animal make no mistake. Matching the undercut is burly as.

Incidentally what have pass temps been like the last week?

[superfurrymonkey]

Conditions were spot on nice and cool, same for tomorrow but Sunday looks like it might be wet.