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Pocket Pulling (Read 2251 times)

Luke Owens

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Pocket Pulling
April 19, 2013, 02:03:28 pm
Obviously there are plenty of Euro Limestone crags covered in pockets but I'm wondering, is there anything like this in the UK? Any specific routes? Just curious really...

I haven't sport climbed many places in the UK only a handfull of crags in North Wales.

Wood FT

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#1 Re: Pocket Pulling
April 19, 2013, 02:27:48 pm
In the Peak you have Beeston and High tor, both of which are very pockety from my experience, even more so round the bend from High Tor at the less well known Pic Tor. All these are trad, though I assume some of the retrobolted routes on the right wing of High Tor and the sport routes through the Beeston bulge must be of the same ilk.

For pocket orientated sport I only really know the route Beginners wall down Blackwell Dale. I'm a fan of pockets so I await better answers eagerly.

leeroy

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#2 Re: Pocket Pulling
April 19, 2013, 09:32:22 pm
honorary buoux at beeston is as pockety as the name suggests, and steady at 7c.

csl

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#3 Re: Pocket Pulling
April 22, 2013, 06:42:29 pm
Leeroy, has Honorary Buoux been rebolted since the UKC description was written do you reckon? It describes tatty bolts...

kc

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#4 Re: Pocket Pulling
April 22, 2013, 09:34:00 pm
Very unlikely.

csl

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#5 Re: Pocket Pulling
April 22, 2013, 09:58:22 pm
Just realised i've misread the description anyway. The tatty bolts bit is "a direct finish awaits. An old abandoned project with tatty bolts.".

May try and have a go on it then. (edit: not the abandoned project, just the standard route.)

kc

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#6 Re: Pocket Pulling
April 22, 2013, 10:20:50 pm
No you did not misread it.
It was an unknown abandoned project.
On the first accent I went up first but was a bit put off by the state of the old "cleaning" bolts. Anyway it looked a bit pants compared to the potential lurking in the ivy gash. So Mark stepped in and did it. He never went back to re gear it.
I would advise taking some gear along to back things up and a machete for the approach.

csl

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#7 Re: Pocket Pulling
April 22, 2013, 10:23:53 pm
Ok, cheers for the info!

leeroy

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#8 Re: Pocket Pulling
April 22, 2013, 10:45:36 pm
the bolts were a bit dodgy when i did it last summer, but they all held steady!

worth noting the first bolt is very high, so as kc said, take some gear.

 

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