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How long after an A2 rupture before starting fingerboarding? (Read 2453 times)

Sasquatch

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Background: I blew my A2 on Feb 1, took 3 weeks off, 4 weeks of easy climbing, and now 4 more weeks of progressively harder climbing. I'd say I'm back to 90+% of normal (aside from being stupidly overweight).   

In the last week I've starting crimping again and it feels pretty good.  Stiffness the next morning, but no pain before, during or after climbing. 

I wouldn't be thinking about FBing at this time except that I am going to be seriously crunched for time for the next 6-8 weeks and FBing at home is by far the most effecient training for me. 

What think the gods of the forum?

krymson

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I've had pulley issues and i've actually used a fingerboard to rehabilitate successfully

For me on a fingerboard I can completely focus on my grip, on the way my hand holds the edge, and really understand the way the fingers interact with the hold. This lets me train  and also rehabilitate the fingers in a safe as possible way, whereas while doing hard bouldering, peak forces and hand positions and loadings are more unpredictable.

What i did is work up from openhanded(dragging), to assisted open crimp("Half crimp"), to unassisted open crimp on the injured hand, backing off at any sign of pain. With the half crimp on the injured hand, work from a more open crimp up progressively into a half crimp, paying attention to pain signals. Half crimp puts more pressure on the a2 pulley whereas open hand does so minimally, so work slowly into it.


Before, between sets and after each session i would do the "squeeze test" where i squeeze the injured area and pay attention to any abnormal signs of pain. (You can use the healthy hands finger or surrounding fingers as a control to see if the pain is abnormal. ) If there is any sign of pain i back off until it gets better.

I also did contrast baths/ice therapy during this period which seemed to help a great deal - as measured anecdotedly by the "squeeze test"

One major benefit of doing this compared to just climibng is that when you are rehabilitated, you will be able to half crimp while climbing with confidence that you aren't going to blow something out.

Sasquatch

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Thanks!

I was wondering a bit about the idea of fixed hand positioning being easier on the pulley as I start to really pull harder.   

I think I may start doing 1fb session a week for the next couple of weeks in addition to 2-3 other climbing sessions (focusing on movement and volume still) and see how it does. 

I've never done a pulley before, and not had a finger injury for the last 10 years, so I'm a bit of a newby on fingers.

tomtom

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Ages ago when rehabbing a bad finger I did quite alot of open hand grip fingerboarding to work the finger out.. A3 IIRC..

krymson

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Sure!

This is a good read to understand grips better. There is more subtlety to it than you would think:
http://www2.8a.nu/eng/articles/fingerposition.shtml

Sasquatch

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Sure!

This is a good read to understand grips better. There is more subtlety to it than you would think:
http://www2.8a.nu/eng/articles/fingerposition.shtml
Arrgghhh, never to link to 8a without a big bold warning.... I have to readjust my brain to translate.   ;D

I have a pretty good handle on the variances between grips, mostly was just fishing for personal experiences with FB after a pulley rupture.  Figure grade 2/3 rupture(sounded like a gun shot).

krymson

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Arrgghhh, never to link to 8a without a big bold warning.... I have to readjust my brain to translate.   ;D

Funny how something can be "in English", without being in English =)
« Last Edit: May 03, 2013, 05:51:33 am by krymson »

Robsons

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Are we talking partial ruptures? I fully ruptured my A2 (possibly A3 as well) in March 2012 and I had pain, inflamation (and the rest) for months...I was seeing physios and hand specialists and didn't start climbing at all for over 3 months.
A year on and my finger is still a weak spot for pain - It is far stronger than it has been (not pre snap), but throwing for any horrible crimps is still out of bounds!

I was too wondering about fingerboarding again to build safe strength?  I would just do the standard repeates and encores on good holds and bottom BM2000 rails??
Any further thoughts??

 

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