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Sean's Arete (Read 1551 times)

kingholmesy

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Sean's Arete
February 23, 2013, 07:59:12 pm
Was trying this today but after pulling on I was struggling to move my left hand up to the pebble from either the good low pockets or from guppying the arete.  Is it cricket to pull on with my left hand already on the pebble?

tomtom

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#1 Sean's Arete
February 23, 2013, 08:15:17 pm
My way (Dollys beta) is outside lf on arête, rh on arête. Step up put right heel around arête highish to stop bar door. LH up to guppy arête just above rh. Then bring RH up higher on arête (with sharp pebble iirc) then lean accross the face left, get pebble with LH. Not bring rf onto arête now you're square on the face dead point to the hold.

dave

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#2 Re: Sean's Arete
February 23, 2013, 08:39:55 pm
Was trying this today but after pulling on I was struggling to move my left hand up to the pebble from either the good low pockets or from guppying the arete.  Is it cricket to pull on with my left hand already on the pebble?

I pulled on wi LH on pebble (undercutting it as much as possible), RH on good arete bit, LF on arete, pull on, RF heelhook and go up again with RH for best bit of arete. Take RF out of heel, put on decent foothold and go for top with LH.

kingholmesy

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#3 Re: Sean's Arete
February 23, 2013, 09:31:33 pm
Cheers.  Dave's way sounds like it's more likely to be the way forward for me.  Just wanted to check that I wouldn't subsequently be told to get the tippex out if I ticked it like this.

Eddies

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#4 Re: Sean's Arete
February 24, 2013, 07:58:42 pm
What tomtom said... the start is all about timing, just keep the momentum going. Once your up there your well away

 

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