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Breakfast/boulderado start (Read 2645 times)

dr_botnik

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Breakfast/boulderado start
March 22, 2016, 08:09:50 pm
Are you meant to start with both hands in break, then move feet up to slope/break or is that the harder start? Does reaching up to the arete before putting a foot on slope/ break count? Vertebrae guide talks about a footblock but I'm not sure if this means the small football sized block or the larger block the arete is resting on.

deacon

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#1 Re: Breakfast/boulderado start
March 22, 2016, 10:29:40 pm
Left hand on arête, right hand on break. Flick right foot into a heel-toe in the break then up the arête. Watch you don't snap your foot off when you pop off the arête :)

dave

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#2 Re: Breakfast/boulderado start
March 23, 2016, 08:42:26 am
Sit start, so most people seem to start left on arete, right in break.

tommytwotone

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#3 Re: Breakfast/boulderado start
March 23, 2016, 09:13:09 am
Given it only took me about 10,000 goes to do it I can't actually remember it that clearly but +1 to deacon and Dave. I have a vague memory of a RH jam at the start?!




galpinos

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#4 Re: Breakfast/boulderado start
March 23, 2016, 09:21:09 am
Left hand on arete, right hand in break (I think I had a jam here), stand up and pop the heal toe in. Swarm gracefully up the arete then fail repeatedly on the move back right to the good edge, go home deflated.

Repeat ad infinitum......

JamieG

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#5 Re: Breakfast/boulderado start
March 23, 2016, 12:57:45 pm
Agree with heel-toe beta, then i seem to remember pressing your right knee onto the face really helps when you release the heel-toe otherwise it's hard to stop swinging off. But it's been awhile since i did it . . .

danm

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#6 Re: Breakfast/boulderado start
March 23, 2016, 01:35:43 pm
I'm not that tall (5'9") but have a +3 ape index, used the same start beta as the others. Probably the most satisfied I've ever been after doing a problem: http://www.nectarclimbing.com/words/grit-for-breakfast

fatdoc

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#7 Re: Breakfast/boulderado start
March 23, 2016, 08:30:37 pm
Left hand on arete, right hand in break (I think I had a jam here), stand up and pop the heal toe in. Swarm gracefully up the arete then fail repeatedly on the move back right to the good edge, go home deflated.

Repeat ad infinitum......

that's me

 

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