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Fingerboard progress (Read 2175 times)

James Malloch

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Fingerboard progress
July 22, 2012, 07:41:41 am
I'm getting my board put up later today and wondered if there are some certain pulls/hangs that I can measure to compare against to check progress. Any standard things which you think would give a good general idea of how I'm improving?

slackline

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James Malloch

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#2 Re: Fingerboard progress
July 23, 2012, 06:56:49 am
Thanks, I'll check it out!

shark

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#3 Re: Fingerboard progress
July 23, 2012, 01:03:46 pm
I'm getting my board put up later today and wondered if there are some certain pulls/hangs that I can measure to compare against to check progress. Any standard things which you think would give a good general idea of how I'm improving?

Testing/benchmarking is a great idea not only to measure progress but also to try and fathom out if you have any weak grip positions or finger combos to focus your training on. This covered well by Beastmaker and Crusher Holds

As a fundamental benchmark find out how much weight on (including noting bodyweight) you can add to hold a medium (by your definition of medium) sized edge in a half-crimped position for say 6 seconds and the smallest depth hold you can hold with bodyweight only for the same duration.

Another test is to see how much weight off (or on if strong) is required to hold a first joint edge with one hand. Bear in mind this ability might be compromised more by shoulder weakness/instability and so not accurately measure pure finger strength. 
« Last Edit: July 23, 2012, 01:14:55 pm by shark »

 

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