[i.munro]

Please :
 

[rodma]

That is a fucking amazing question

[neil h]

That is a fucking amazing question

 


pull on, crux one, hit the top crux two 

[i.munro]

pull on, crux one, hit the top crux two 

I'm afraid you're not making anything clearer.
That could be read as pulling on is the fiirst crux then hitting the top is the second
or as the move after pulling on is hard & so is the one after hitting the top.

Basically I've spent the afternoon not sticking the faint crack out right. I held it once, briefly.

If the next move or even worse the top-out are harder then it's not worth me going back.
On the other hand if it eases a tiny bit after then It's worth another pop.

[Johnny Brown]

Crux for me was sticking the top, I think, though it was a hot day.

[old cheese]

It's an excellent move. You can do it two ways but the easiest for me was stick the faint crack out right, then with your right foot on the good sloper on the vague arête, throw for the top. Top out is easy. Alternative is put your left foot on same sloper and use momentum generated by swinging your right foot to flick to the top (like a double axle in ice skating, hence the name i guess). This can be done without flicking to the crack out right but is a bit harder.

Hope that helps? Neil h's beta is wack and very unhelpful. Surprising for someone who seems to want to help much of the time?

[ghisino]

the crux is holding the left hand slopey pinch well enough to confortably lean over to the crack and set up for the dyno.
Subjectively miles harder than the rest and the crux for triple too, always started to slip off in the middle of the process apart from one lucky day.

good conditions help a lot and are not obvious on this one, it always tends to feel damp so windy and dry is more important than cold...

[i.munro]

Thanks guys. Things are a bit clearer now.

[tim palmer]

the crux is holding the left hand slopey pinch well enough to confortably lean over to the crack and set up for the dyno.
Subjectively miles harder than the rest and the crux for triple too

I would second those sentiments, if you get your feet right the dyno isn't very hard at all and the top out easy, I found crux just moving my right hand off the good crimp and on to the slopey sidepull, that drew me into balance and could go to the crack.

[i.munro]

Thanks. Sadly rain meant I didn't get another crack this trip.
It's going on the (long) list though.