Quote from: dave k on February 27, 2011, 07:12:15 pmMight explain Ru's earlier view that it was 7b+. I never thought it was 7b+, just not much between it and Tetris.
Might explain Ru's earlier view that it was 7b+.
Sorry Ru. I mis-remembered the following"For me it felt easier than tetris (ie, 7c/V9 ish), as you avoid the cut loose swinging round the corner. Certainly it's stacks easier than the inertia reel trav (low V12/8a+, perhaps even just 8a)."
Undercut dyno is no way 7b. Its easier than buckstone. Maybe 7a+ at an absolute max.
That's the problem with grading dynos. It's the opposite for me in that I find the Buckstone way easier than the undercut dyno.For what it's worth I think the Undercut dyno is definitely harder than the other 7a dynos in the peak like Crash 'n' Gurn, Attitude Inspector and the pocket dyno thing on the trackside boulder.
Have you repeated Higginsons since the key hold breakage (the one under the roof is now about 1/3 of the size? It's still climbable, but a fair bit harder.
The left hand chicken head at on Ten Inch Zombies at eatswood has snapped off seems a lot harder now, didn't do it so can't suggest a grade. Thought i'd mention it as it seems to be a pretty recent change and could effect the guide.
This got a few re-ascents yesterday. I’d guess at it being a grade harder than it was, so now soft 7a+ rather than soft 7a. For my money the new sequence is more pleasant than the original, with tik-takking on sloper crimps instead of yarding on a sharp chicken’s beak.
just a thought but does anybody else agree the left hand hold on the joker seems to be getting better and better.
just a thought but does anybody else agree the left hand hold on the joker seems to be getting better and better. not good enough that i can do it like but it is certainly less conditions dependent and seems highly crimpable without careful slopey finger arrangement.
If Froggy Dick is 7b then Undercut Dyno is at least a grade easier, so I'd say middlin to hard 7a.
I'm torn between dishing out for the current one...