[fried]

Last Sunday's climbing with a bad back turned out to be not such a good idea and put me back to square one. Feeling tender all week and slowly getting more and more pissed off. Luckily, today it seems to be on the mend. Hence I took the whole week off.

On a better note I found a parking in my street, should pick up the keys next week which should knock 2 hours off going to Font.

Watched the CWIF.

Weight 73.6kg

[csl]

Monday- Leeds Wall - Warmed up bouldering including some longer links of V4/5 problems. Tried a 7a and 7a+ on main wall then did 4x4s on routes with not too much success.
Tuesday- Nowt
Wednesday- Malham - Lots of excuses and no ticking.
Thursday- running - just shy of 5km in 22.30 - first time i've been running in years!
Friday- Leeds Wall - did 4x4s on routes, felt much better this time - completed all sets.
Saturday- Park Run - bit of motivation to get out running. 5km in 21.05 came 34th. Should beat this next week when i don't do my sprint finish a lap too soon!
Sunday- Nothing

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) aero every week
- Weight consistently 68ish
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year

M,T,W,T - nothing. work nights, mope about heel hurting.
F - TCA couple of hours on the mothership (steep). Took my biggest boots and was very careful about dropping off/LF heel hooks. Actually managed to climb for a bit, felt surprisingly rusty after only 8 days off, but didn't have to give up immediately, so ok I suppose.
S - nowt, childcare
S - took daughter (2 1/2) to TCA for first time, I did nothing but she had a great time swinging off jugs and bouncing on the mats. Watched CWIF semis, hoping to catch finals later.

Weight: 69 all week, 70 this morning - boo! Not done much but eat in the last week though, it's one of the things that gets me through nights. No aero for 4 weeks now, tut tut, but I've been injured this week, and the 2 previous weeks both included 2 long days out in the cold on rock, which I reckon counts. Might have to go to the pool next week though *shudder*

[tomtom]

Like a butterfly bursting forth from its chrysalis, I emerged from my week of illness to touch and dance accross the gritstone of merry England again..

Like a maggot turning into a fly, I dragged my lazy post flu ass out for the first time in a couple of weeks and gibbered and scratched my way up some luck based scrittle in the peak.

Mon > Thurs work, cough, splutter, flem, cough, hack, winge moan, cough splutter.
Fri. Met up with Plattsy (not Patsy ) at a windy Burbizzliod - went west side... warmed up with a couple of nose attempts, then REALLY ANNOYINGLY made some progress on WSS with a NEW SEQUENCE. So my previous stone wall move failure does not prevent me from doing this problem any more, and it can now SIT and CHEW away at my BRAIN for months on end has it has done in the past. Anyway, then had fun on Jasons Mono, slapping the top loads of times but not holding - and finished off with a play on Breakfast.
Sa. Work again. Pah.
Sun. got out for a couple of hours at Helsby.. came damn bastard shitting close to getting the low traverse I've been working, but ran out of skin. Hmph. Still onwards and upwards.

A reasonable week, and despite doing FA for a week or two, the scales said 11 stn 5 yesterday - which is a new low record..

[tommytwotone]

M - Nowt.
T - Board session
W - Depot session on new Yellows (V7+). Did a couple.
T - Nowt.
F - Down to Sheff for #ukbpissup, drank a bit too much.
S - Felt grotty all morning, got out to Burbage in the afternoon - a few solos, then a mandatory 20 trashings by Breakfast.
S - Back to Leeds for Sunday lunch with the missus.

[leeroy]

stg - 7C+ on grit, more hard trad headpointing/flashing
ltg - 8a sport and lime 7C

M - Cool day at Loja. Did the excellent Hasta luego luca, but felt too hard, not fit.
T - Great day finishing off madre salavge at Desplo, not as unfit as i thought.
W - Massive walk in to makindromo in full midday sun to belwy dad on lourdes, no success  Did the amazing life is sweet, best 6c about
T - Plane home, nowt
F -  Perverse reverse at the tor, nice to finish something off, good links on bens for this summer, its gonna go.
S - Charlotte rampling, jackalope and english voodoo at gardoms, sweet day.
S - not much, met some mates on stanage but it was way to warm to do anything.

Good week, with some of the best stuff i've ever done, charlotte rampling is up there with thumbelina, the pride, ullysses or bust etc as the being one of the best highballs about. 

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.2-4   

M. Day. Good Deadhang/Encore/sess
T. Eve. Evening. Wave with Ben and Poppy. Good sess finally got red white tags 6C+   
W. Eve. Shed. Worked on Oak moves for 40mins when got home then a single AnPower set on Oak circuit when got home from taking kids to EIS. Getting closer to latching throw from start
T.
F. PM Malham with Wil and Cheque. Crag/Oak disappointingly wet. Had some gd goes on Raindogs despite being wet and greasy
S. Tommy and team crushed in Norfolk Park x country relay.
S. Malham with Keith, Jay and Wil. Cloudy bit drier than fri but Oak soaked. Flet wired. 4 redpoint attempts at Raindogs. Pulled hard, did ok.
 
Busy week this week. Next back to Malham on Sat.

[nai]

goal - rediscover my mojo.

M - went to Burbage North for a potter but spotted Pattsy (sic) throwing himself at Jason's across the way so went to say hello and join in.  He soon got it and we moved along, tried Famous Grouse briefly before declaring it too warm having made no progress, but in reality the pysche to try really hard just wasn't there.
t-w nowt
T started feeling rough, 30 min run by mistake, felt worse.
f - rougher
s - cough splutter etc
S moderate improvement. put the Beastmaker back up after an 8 week absence.  Hung off it a bit, didn't feel that bad considering.

[TobyD]

Goals: I need to think of some of them

M LQP slabs; shadowstyx & 1 go at mustard custard
T pixies and gully wall
W 2hrs ish on bike lovely but freezing
T Torbryan stam session: laps on Barney Rubble, thread Flintstone and associated link ups
F Long Quarry Point; warmed up on Shadowstyx, did Mustard Custard 3rd go - having bascially done it the first two but breaking holds high up. 'slab' climbing is pretty beastly sometimes.
S 2hrs or so on bike
S pixies session, circuits on gully wall, 1hr40 on bike.  Tired.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; start getting into routes when weather allows, still boulder when cold.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; try to stop weight gain, regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Nothing - sucks.
T - Outdoor routes @ Ley Quarry, easy mileage - okay, cold and reachy but did a few decent routes.
W - Nothing - sucks.
T - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, stamina I guess - okay, sore skin but did some decent circuit stuff.
F - Nothing - sucks.
S - Outdoor routes @ Barnton Quarry, easy trad - so-so, did a couple of routes, didn't feel great.
S - Outdoor bouldering @ Laggan, few warmups that's all - bad, felt knackered and day went to bollox.

Crap week. Low spirits and low energy all week. Days out climbing didn't really reassure me. Just need to weather it out and probably do some more easy mileage as well as getting back to the fucking gym.

Edit: Sore elbows too. Holding steady with taping but demoralising and worrying and fucking up bouldering/training.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M: bike to work ca 25 km
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: 8 routes up to 6b attempted, with a low success rate but an above zero rate of actually falling off the non-successes. This is unusual for me & therefore good.
T:
F: bike to work ca 25 km
S: press-ups, core, yoga
S: Wall, Thalkirchen: 7 routes up to 6c attempted. Success on a couple of 6bs but 6c feels a long way off. But had to start trying to rp something a bit harder sooner or later.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (1 done)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: 4m run & eccentrics
T: Bouldering at NCC
W: 6m run, eccentrics and theraband
T: Quick BM repeaters session
F: rest
S: Bouldering at Stanton Moor - Felt rubbish - not a great choice of venue for first time back in a few weeks.
S: Bouldering at Burbage South -  A bit better, enjoyed being out in the sun, then did a lovely 9m fell run

Feel miles from any of my targets at the moment but seem to remember being in a similar situation last year before it came together late in the year, perhaps the same will happen this year! Taking it easy with training at the moment as my elbows and right ring finger a quite sore.

[i_a_coops]

Monday:
3 30pm - 4 30pm:  Aerocap session. stayed on steep board for 11 min with one min in good heel hook rest halfway. Traverses. Moving well.
6 10pm - 7 10pm: Aerocap session. 11 min on steep board with one min in fairly good bum jam rest halfway. Traverses + vert nastiness on crimps up to V3.
8 30pm - 9 30pm: Mainly aerocap session. Also flashed a V5.

Tuesday:
8pm: 5 sets of 4 routes.    1: up 6c down 6b+(any feet) up 6c (one fall) down 5+.
               2: up 6c down 5+ up 6b down 6b
               3: up 6c down 5+ up 6c (one fall) down 5+
               4: up 6c x 4
               5: up down up down 6b
Wednesday:
4pm: 2 sets of around 15-20 min aerocap. mix of steepness on jugs and vert on edges. Turbo pumped by the end.
8pm: 3 sets of 10-20 min including traversing bouldering room there & back

Thursday:
2pm - 4pm: did a 7b+ then:    up 7a down 6b
                  up 6c down 6b up 6b down 6b
                  up 6c x 4
                  up 6c x 4
6 30pm:  easy routes up to 6a+, boulder problems up to V6.

rest of week: rest, chocolate.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always.

M: Fingerboard + Weights - Repeaters, max hangs, full crimp finger testing (feet on) NO TAPE!!! Complex weight stuff and curls, assisted 1 arm stuff.
T: Bouldering @ Froggatt - Did some easys then the hardest 6a+ I've ever done and ticked Glass Slipper 
W: Bouldering and PE @ The Works - Polished off a few more wasps then 6 x 40 moves (2nd half of 7a+ into woodies) @ 5mins rest.. Pint.
T: AeroCap - 4 x 100+ hand moves on beasmaker with feet on chair @ 8 mins rest.
F: Rest
S: Planned Trad day - Grim on Stanage so just soloed around 15 routes up to VS and nipped round for a few goes on WSS (made progress in pretty average conditions), narrowly failed to repeat Breakfast - Tired.
S: Easy bouldering @ Owler Tor with kids - Did Connan and a load of other things up to about 6b+.

Good week - Did loads. Absolutely shat myself at first soloing but ended up really enjoying it, good to go back and tick GS (easy with new boots).. Nice new PE circuit too.

This week: Tor Tuesday then as above, reduce PE rest to 4 mins.

:D   

[pete b]

Going to the lakes in a couple of weeks. Trying to get strong whilst trying to avoid further injury to fingers.

M: Indoor bouldering at K2. Worked a V8 which felt almost doable.
T: Nothing.
W: 30 minute run. 30 minute campus/finger board. One arm hangs with 6kg assistance.
T: 2 hours juggling.
F: > 1 hour juggling.
S: 30 minute run.
S: 1.5 hours juggling.

[marky8b]

6/3/12
ANC & ARC
getting over cold...
Run/ warm up
ANC 15 move fingery problem from steep wall onto 20 degree
10 reps failure on 8th,9th & 10th total of 140 moves
20,10's x 4sets of 5 reps each, from 40 degree wall, 20 degree and vertical. Total moves 600
shorter rest between sets down to 7/8mins.
600 core

8/3/12
Chapel Session
ANP & SSW
Run warm up
50+ moves various
1 arm assisted 20kg's x 3 x5/6secs
15kgx5x5 (1x5x5x15=375kg)
Weight belt x 4 x12/14 moves steep wall (50 moves)
Dead hang 1xsmall 7on3off
Middle2 x 4x8secs (foot on)
Dead hang 1 x medium
ANT work
Bench 50 x (10,10,8)  into curls 10x10x3
Press 30 x 7,6,6 into uprow 30 x 8,8,7
Core 300 & isometric work

9/3/12
Chapel Session
ARC
warm up
20,10's 2 sets of 4 (300moves)

10/3/12
Cheedale outside
8 routes 6b - 7b
great to be outside, still feel very wooden in climbing movements..
end of a shit week of training due to cold, missed target by 700 moves 

[wsmith]

Week 9 of plan

M. Campus board. 1-3-5-7 x 6. 4 max throws (1-4). 4 sets of 7 offset pullups. Anatgonist - pressups, dips, eccentric pronators and wrist curls.
T.
W. Core and 20 min cardio in day. Aerocap 20/10s in eve.
T. Ancap circuit in garage. 2 sets of 5 reps each. Dropped rest to 2 min. Rest between sets still at 6 min.
F. 4x4 on routes at Warwick.
S. Got spanked by the cwif problems. Tor afterwards, managed cave problem 
S. Bouldering at Cratcliffe and robin hoods. Did wish and a different cave problem, tried t crack and did some easy mileage.

Not bad. Gunna make the antagonist session after going on the campus board a regular thing. Ancap circuit feels much better doing 10 reps rather than the normal 8.

[webbo]

M. Weights.
T. Signing to sell house at solicitors.
W. Turbo 1 hour.
Th. Nothing.
F. Nothing.
S. Weights.Bike 2hrs 20 mins.
Su. Bike 3 hrs.
Avoided climbing due to painful lat.
Spent alot of time packing boxes in ready for house move.