[MatthewL]

Hi!

I'm going to be free for 3 months during summer (contract ends late may, new job late august) and was considering spending 3 months in Font, as I have nothing better to do.

I know summer is not the most ideal conditions for bouldering in Font, but is it really that bad? Will the sun be intense and the friction terrible? (I've only been in winter).

I don't have a car and my plan is to hitchhike or get a bicycle, is this viable?

I'll be solo, i.e spotters only 30% of the time if I'm working a problem with some climbers I meet there, bad idea?

Any advice would be appreciated! And would love to hear anyone else's experiences for bouldering in Font in summer.

Many thanks!

Matthew

[groovedog]

prob not ideal time like you say. Depends what you have in mind to do? I can imagine 3 months of warm weather would frustrate me, but if I was there a week or so not so bad. I went in Sept and it was v.warm still, but you can enjoy it still. Getting up earlier would help with better conditions.

Getting around without a car if your in Milly area would be ok, you can walk to climbing areas 95.2, roche aux sabot, Milly for food etc. We did  this for a week or so and it was fine. No sure how easy hitching is?

[MatthewL]

Thanks for the information!

Maybe Font wont be the best idea, I'll keep it as an option.
However, do you or anyone else know another great bouldering area in Europe that fits the following specifications?:

-Good bouldering in summer and not too hot
-Don't need a car
-Lots of boulders of quality
-Accommodation not too expensive (3 months in a tent? No thanks!)

Thanks!

Matthew

[neil h]

font is ok in the summer, early morning starts and late night sessions is key. yes it will be hot, but I have climbed hard problems in the heat of the day, pick you crag correctly and choose your problems carefully, a few of my cids will give you a good idea

[S Smith]

Two summers ago I spent July and August working in a campsite near font - evening shift in their snack bar thingy six nights a week and mornings/afternoons bouldering.  While the conditions weren't super, it was by no means impossible to climb - you just have to be tactful about when you climb and what you want to get done.  As an example, carnage will probably feel ok/not much different to how it does the rest of the time, while berezina will feel nails.  Basically anything really slopey will be hard.  Think along the lines of steep stuff with more positive holds.

My pattern went something like: get to the boulders early, warm up, try hard (for me) stuff/things I was projecting, then by the time it got very warm in the middle of the day or when I was tired, go potter about on easy circuits for some mileage on easy climbs.  Got lots done.

How about Magic Wood?  Perhaps for part of the summer anyway, as I'm not sure what the story with accommodation is there other than the campsite and as you said, three months in a tent is a bit much!  It seems like it's a pain to get to if you don't have a car, but once you're there it's easy.  The campsite is right beside the climbing, and the conditions are ideal in the summer.  Was there for a week this summer at the start of august.  We got two rainy days, but when we did climb it was super.  There were a lot of people in the campsite too, so lifts to the nearest town to get food every couple of days shouldn't be too hard to come by.

From my summer in Font, I thought August was hotter than July, so maybe June and July in Font and August in Magic?

Good luck and have fun whatever you end up doing!

[fried]

Targasonne is high, and so nice in the summer.

That said I love Font in July/ August. It's usually quiet 'cos everyone's on holiday in the south. Start early, chill out for the afternoon with beer/ siesta in the shade, watch some squirrels, restart in the evening. If there is rain which is likely at this time of year, you can visit the town or Paris.

3 months in a tent sounds like heaven. I always spent 6/7 weeks in the summer camping and I love every second of it!

[Nibile]

Font in summer with no car? 
if I were you I'd go to places like Magic Wood. no car needed, better conditions, plenty of spotters. and some quite good bouldering also.

[MatthewL]

Hi, thanks for all the advice everyone!

I'm starting to consider as many of you suggested to hit Font first, then head over to magic wood in july/august.
And for any of you who have been to Magic wood did you have any issues with leaving bags/tents at the campsite? Obviously I'll bring any valuables with me, but I as I'll be without a car, I'd be leaving my tent setup with my travel backpack inside.

Thanks!

Matthew

[T_B]

I had 2 weeks in Font last September and it was 25-30 degrees most days. I'm converted - unlike the grit, sandstone is loads more manageable to climb on in the heat. I second the positive remarks above and would add that I was basically operating at about half a grade lower than I would hope to in good conditions. Yes, really slopey problems are out, but you get tons more done than you would in winter I reckon.

Also, it's really quiet, which is ace for areas that are normally v busy.

[cheque]

I thought August was hotter than July

[Willriseley]

hey man me and the missus are heading around Europe in june and going to font, might be able to offer you a ride further south in france like mid june time?