[cha1n]

Hi

I've found lots of information on all aspects of max hangs, apart from resting time.

I've read that rest time between hangs should be 1.5 minutes or so but assuming you're hanging one armed, do you also wait 1.5 minutes before switching arms?

Would you do left arm, then right arm or set of left arms, take a long rest then a set of right arms? Also how long do people rest between sets and how many reps in a set?

I would guess that there would be 5 reps to a set (as this is strength work)? It seems I don't know much about this, if someone could detail their MAX HANGS workout I'd be very grateful.

[Nibile]

I generally do 6 hangs for each chosen hold.
I have two types of sessions: a pure deadhanging one and a "tests" one.
when doing the first type of session I generally go from one hold to the other in a cycle, that I repeat for 6 times. this allows better rest and less skin issues for each hang on the same hold. I do not measure rests too much, if I feel good, I go immediately. otherwise I take one or two minutes. doing the cycle also allows to cut down a bit the session's duration. for instance, I do not rest between index monos, middle monos and back2. this sessions are long anyway and I find that the best hangs are between the 2nd and the 4th cycle, all the others are sub-max in some sort of way because I am either not recruited enough or too tired. if I feel very tired I skip the 6th rep.

in the "tests" session I just do one or two hangs for each chosen hold. I take long rests and I want to be sure that I am doing the absolute max. hangs I can do.
I prefer this session if I want to climb afterward, it' short but very very intense (esp. on one arm) and it's easy to feel a bit tired on the board. if I do this session in the morning and climb in the afternoon, often I'm strong on the board.

hope this helps.

[Pebblespanker]

When doing max hangs I tend to be kind to my ancient body lol - no choice really or it gets fcuked! So Old Punters version:

My general rule is 5-6 hangs per set, crimpy hangs 3mins rest, sloper or open hand 2 mins rest to the next rep and 5 mins between sets - I'm after maximal gain while minimising injury risk. I apply the same timings to 1 handed maximals and I do LA immediatley after RA (or vice versa) since this has had no loading then rest 2-3mins - at my age caution is the watchword lol  I may not be reaping the maximum benefit but then again I'm not injuring myself either and am improving gradually

Am sure someone who isn't approaching 50 will be along soon to offer an alternative and better informed view ... and Nibile has obliged as I wrote this!

[Nibile]

and I do LA immediatley after RA (or vice versa)

so you do Liquid Ambar after Rock Atrocity or vice versa?
effort!!! 

I think that for max hangs, caution is a must regardless of age!!!

[cha1n]

Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it.

I realise that it may have seemed like a silly question asking if you rested between arms but I wondered if the nervous system would require a rest because of the neurological stress from pulling at maximum. I know it sounds unlikely..

How many sets are you guys doing per grip type, 5-6?

I've only used a fingerboard once before (repeaters) and I found it boring enough to put me off trying again for around a year! I'll only be doing one grip type for the next few months (front 3, open-handed) so try and balance out my reliance on crimping but prefer the max hang approach rather than repeaters.

I think like Nible stated, it's good to be cautious. I certainly have no intention of rushing things, just want to increase open-hand strength in a way that isn't too damaging on the skin.

[Pebblespanker]

and I do LA immediatley after RA (or vice versa)

so you do Liquid Ambar after Rock Atrocity or vice versa?
effort!!! 

LOL  one likes to be modest but it's most nights just before I wake up!

[Pebblespanker]

Chain I do a minimium of 4-6 sets per grip type (old  joints  ) and vary the number of fingers - often I split the sessions so in a week I work all my grips but trying to do quality sessions as tired arms and max hangs can be risky ... I also start with a warm-up type set for each grip type to start the recruitment then do double sets e.g.

4F Full Crimp small edge - 2 arm, then
3F Full Crimp small edge - 2 arm, then
3F Full Crimp small edge - 2 arm etc.

To work up to less fingers per hold than I reduce the number of fingers in use per hand e.g. one set 4F one hand and 3 F on the other alternating hands in the next set to break in the new grip type. Once at maximal hangs (4 secs hang or less) I load the fingers slowly and carefully, especially in one and two finger grips

Bear in mind this is an old punter's training 

One last thing if you are only training Open Hand and to increase strength then I'd suggest focus on the back 3 may give you quicker overall gains on Open handing just the front 3

[cha1n]

Thanks again for the detailed information.

I would like to work the back 3 aswell, but I have slight A2 injuries on both ring fingers and find it difficult to keep the ring finger perfectly straight on the back 3 (short pinkie).

[b3n99]

I've just finished the first week of mission 'get super strong' which includes two sets of maximum hangs a week. So far I've followed a rest of about a minute per rep (after doing both arms if single arm hanging) although if im feeling tired may have up to another minute as I don't think fighting fatigue should really be a problem if max hanging. I've been doing 6 sets of hangs on each position (6 different ones so far) as well as some lock off stuff and it seems to build a pretty intense but manageable session (doing this in the morning and then training on a board in the evening twice a week).
            Would also reccomend maybe doing encores instead of pure deadhangs as its surprising how much harder it is to hold certain holds with a decent lock on which is pretty common when your bouldering.