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Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier (Read 6188 times)

b3n99

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Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 28, 2011, 05:02:44 pm
Had a great day at the roaches yesterday and ended up playing on this. Got as far as right hand in the good scoop, toe hooks and left hand coming into bad scoop by it before sacking it off. I then watched Hard Grit again when i got home and saw ben moons wrist breaking method. Anyone done it or know how iws most commonly done? Seems sensible to get left hand in the decent scoop and go right from there.

Cheers

dobbin

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#1 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 29, 2011, 08:10:03 am
is it all dry then? interesting...

anyway, think theres a divot in the left hand scoop that you mentioned. Bone that and slap out right i think.

Rupert will be along shortly to correct this erroneous information.

Ru

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#2 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 29, 2011, 09:14:45 am
Can go either way. 

Johnny Brown

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#3 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 29, 2011, 10:21:42 am
...if your power to weight ratio is 10,000:1.

dave

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#4 Re: Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 29, 2011, 01:20:48 pm
...if your power to weight ratio is 10,000:1.

What units are we using?

yorkshireman

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#5 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 29, 2011, 01:55:54 pm
pies to lettuce consumption

Johnny Brown

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#6 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 29, 2011, 01:57:58 pm
...if your power to weight ratio is 10,000:1.

What units are we using?

Jims to Ruperts.

tim palmer

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#7 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 29, 2011, 05:24:35 pm
i found it easiest going up with your left hand to the good dish, toehook, bring righthand up next to left on something pretty poor and then go again with righthand to small 2 finger pocket.  take the swing, then go again with righthand to really good dish/finger jug. then glory.  I found it tough for the grade but others disagree I think.

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 29, 2011, 05:29:01 pm
before sacking it off

Did you quote the immortal words before departing?

dobbin

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#9 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
November 30, 2011, 09:07:01 am
"Fuck it, i'm not gonna do it!" or words to that effect?

I think you do a bat hang on the jugs dont you?

Adam Lincoln

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#10 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
December 01, 2011, 01:35:03 pm
Anyone been the last few days. Is Mushin still dry?

SA Chris

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#11 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
December 01, 2011, 02:30:19 pm
"Fuck it, i'm not gonna do it!" or words to that effect?


That'll be them. A mantra to live by.

Nike Air

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#12 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
December 07, 2011, 03:21:43 pm
i found it easiest going up with your left hand to the good dish, toehook, bring righthand up next to left on something pretty poor and then go again with righthand to small 2 finger pocket.  take the swing, then go again with righthand to really good dish/finger jug. then glory.
Used this sequence last weekend and it worked. I used a double toe hook at one point.
The finish~ Once on the good dish with your R hand, match just left of it. Right heel into the good hold above  the undercuts and rock up and left via an intermediate sidepull to reach the thin part of the break. Worth brushing the finishing holds if u can.
Great Problem.

Anyone any beta for The Darkest Cloud??? :)

Johnny Brown

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#13 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
December 07, 2011, 04:05:13 pm
Quote
The finish~ Once on the good dish with your R hand, match just left of it. Right heel into the good hold above  the undercuts and rock up and left via an intermediate sidepull to reach the thin part of the break.

Do you mean left heel?

Nike Air

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#14 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
December 07, 2011, 05:50:40 pm
Yes i meant left heel, doh.
 ::)
Imagine with the right heel on it would be like that opening sequence in Mission impossible!!

Johnny Brown

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#15 Re: Mushin' - Roaches Lower Tier
December 07, 2011, 10:17:53 pm
Ah good, I had visions of you facing out...

 

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