UKBouldering.com

short person beta for Mermaid at burbage bridge (Read 2646 times)

catblack

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 2
  • Karma: +0/-0
short person beta for Mermaid at burbage bridge
November 17, 2011, 09:21:37 pm


Was trying mermaid at burbage bridge today and I can get to the intermediate sidepull/crimp/pinch with my right hand but can't reach the better flat/sloper hold.  Asides from jumping and cutting loose, does anyone have short person beta for that move please?

Cat

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 557
  • Karma: +44/-4
dont htink there is any short person beta for this  :shrug: i'm 5'7 with stumps for arms and famous for wining about how short I am, and I do it the same as everybody else;
RF on good incut hold LH small move to good incut (or just start LH here..) find something to push with for your LF and go all the way to the flatty with RH, LF in slot out left LH intermmediate then again to top. The only difference for shorter climbers is after the 1st move your so stretched its easier to cut the feet to place LF in slot.
Vid of normal sized type doin it here

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
 :agree:
Left foot on polished pebble for flick up flat hold, slightly drag yr thumb on it. I don't use any intermediate holds

catblack

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 2
  • Karma: +0/-0
thanks for the advice.  I can't reach the flat hold for the RH with my right foot on the incut ledge -thats the problem.  I'll try your advice of left foot on polished pebble, flagging with right foot and just throwing for the RH flat hold a bit more.

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
jump... and tension

Norton Sharley

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1207
  • Karma: +27/-2
LF heel/toe up on left, go and go again with RH.  Or jump.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal