[Fultonius]

I want to trad it up this wekeend and Northumberland had been suggested as a potential venue.

Any thoughts on a good locaiton that would provide:

1. Quick drying, clean not too sandy routes.

2. Good range of HVS to E3, cracks, slabs, slopers anything! Don't mind if it's a bit bold, but no chop-routes or deck out potential please.

3. Nearer Edinburgh = Better.

Please, ple-ease help me, help meee!

[SA Chris]

Have you been before?

If not Bowden Doors is the obvious choice for your first visit; quicky drying and not too sandy. And easily accessible from the A1

However, Most E ish stuff will have a certain chop / deckout potential, due to the nature of the routes.

If it's cold and/or windy there then Back Bowden is a good backup. Harder routes are a bit better protected, but as it is more sheltered it takes a bit longer to dry. I suspect you will end up soloing easier stuff and bouldering though.

[Fultonius]

Been to Bowden once, soloed some easy stuff, rolle dmy ankle on a stacked mat, got drunk under the cave on whisky, went to the hospital thinking it was broken, got laughed at by the nurse, went home on the train with my tail between my legs...

Thought bowden was sandy, bold and with lots of deck out potential.... ;-)  but I could go and have a good fight with Overhanging Crack   

[SA Chris]

Back Bowden is a bit better rock than Bowden, but most of the more accessible crags (Kyloe Hills) are a similar hardness Sandstone.

[Fultonius]

Ach well, might just need to man up and embrace the sand!

Pretty psyched for a new rock type 

[andy_e]

Are you living in Edinburgh now? Going to be coming to 'thumberland much?

[Fultonius]

Nope, but I didin't want to confuse any southerners by saying closest to Glasgow, since we'll be going via Edinburgh anyway! 

I often forget about:

1. How close it is.
2. How good it is
3. How different it is to central belt climbing

Psyched 

[SA Chris]

2 and 3 being the same thing.

[Bonjoy]

I'd go for Back Bowden if you've never been before. There are loads of great routes to do in that range, mostly with decent gear and it's much less sandy than Bowden. If you can push it to steady E4 Lost Cause would be worth a punt, with brilliant moves above totally bomber gear.

[SA Chris]

That does look good, Magic Flute looks stead away too.

I seconded Dogden on The Enchanter when I was there with him and that felt OK. Needs a few small cams though.

I've always fancied the Witch too, I'm sure the routes down that end are a much nicer proposition since they cut the trees back. Shame they can't do the same for the Kyloe In and Out.

[Fultonius]

Back Bowden's sounding good 

[Jim]

was also going to suggest back bowden from my very limited experience.
a much better crag than bowden imho

[andy_e]

1. How close it is.
2. How good it is

If you're keen to meet up for some winter bouldering give me a shout!

[Fultonius]

Just had a great day at Back Bowden. Was even warm in a T-shirt!

Magic FLute was good, even if I displayed possibly the least finesse on it ever! Got a bit scared when I found myself halfway up the Sorcerer and got a pumped by the Duke of York! 

Unfortunately saw a guy taking a slab-splatter attempting to onsight "On the Rocks" - ouch  think he sprained his ankle pretty badly.

Does anyone know what this problem is, as we don't have a bouldering guide - it was in the cave at the far right end of the crag. Started in a massive pocket with undercut jugs, out to a massive pocket, right hand to vertical crimp rail, left to slopey jug and then left hand out to a good slopey jug on the front face. After that it was a graunchy rockover presumably to glory - never quite latched the finishing holds as the wee crimps on the face needed a brush!

Thought we'd leave the harder stuff till we were a bit more used to the rock!

I cannot recommend the Foulis chippy in Berwick  waaaaay too greasy!

1. How close it is.
2. How good it is

If you're keen to meet up for some winter bouldering give me a shout!

Will do! 

[SA Chris]

Does anyone know what this problem is, as we don't have a bouldering guide - it was in the cave at the far right end of the crag. Started in a massive pocket with undercut jugs, out to a massive pocket, right hand to vertical crimp rail, left to slopey jug and then left hand out to a good slopey jug on the front face. After that it was a graunchy rockover presumably to glory - never quite latched the finishing holds as the wee crimps on the face needed a brush!

You mean right of the routes on the southern sector? Not sure which one from the description,but there are 3 probs starting from the hole, going left a bit; Brandt 6b+, through the notch; Pipistrelle 6b+ and exiting right of the arete; Serotine 6a+

[Fultonius]

Probably Pipistrelle. My rockover skills are woeful. 

[Edit]

Or not - the problem in this vid is apparently Pipistrelle at 4:47



We were trying the line slightly left of that, rocking over on the face left of the arete. We also did something like what this guy was trying at 3:49, but just went up the crack and jumped off from a big jug. Just mucking around really...

[SA Chris]

No idea, not done them, was just giving info from the guide.

[Fultonius]

Is the guide any good? Can see me going down there a bit more often. Form a comment on UKC logbook, I'm pretty sure it was Brandt.

[SA Chris]

Nothing jaw dropping, but tells you what you need to know. Must be in Tiso etc, have a look.