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When Font gets hot... (Read 2392 times)

cha1n

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When Font gets hot...
March 07, 2014, 10:54:43 am
Hey

Possibly looking to leave Font, have been here for the last month and whilst Feb was depressingly warm, it's now exploded into heat here.

Are there places where it's still icy cold to go climbing or has anyone had much success night bouldering with lights or is it too humid?

rodma

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#1 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 09:25:13 am
How hot is it?

Unless it's unbearable, do easier stuff or climb early before it gets too hot, this is better than climbing in the evening since the Sun hasn't just finished baking the rock

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cha1n

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#2 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 12:28:42 pm
It's like summer hot (disclaimer: I like it very cold due to shit skin). We have to open the vents+windows on our motorhome to keep it below 30deg inside.

Early isn't going to work out but I'm wondering if it's worth investing in some lights. Never tried night bouldering before and wondered if the rock gets damp at night?

T_B

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#3 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 12:37:46 pm
The coolest venue I know of is Cuisiniere. I've climbed there in 30c in September. Or check out the super shady places like Petit Bois, Puiselet le Paradis (the latter has an amazing 7b+ as good as anything in the forest - Quetzal)?

fried

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#4 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 02:19:17 pm
I'd 've thought after spending February in the van you'd be crying out for a bit of sun, Have a picnic, or go somewhere differnent La Padole for example, and do some highballin'.

cha1n

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#5 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 05:12:58 pm
Nah, I've spent the last 7 months specifically looking for icy cold conditions. The girlfriend is loving it though...

Went to Cuisiniere today. 6pm and you can sit in the shade with only a jumper on and not be cold! Like you say, perhaps time for easier stuff but think I'll try and finish my projects with lights and take it from there!

fried

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#6 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 05:31:19 pm
You should've given Font a miss then. It just goes wet, damp miserable, damp cold miserable, 25°, every year. Last year went from snow to too hot in about 2 weeks.

gme

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#7 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 05:32:00 pm
Can't be that bad Ned did surplum yesterday.

cha1n

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#8 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 10:27:56 pm
Never heard of Surplum but the heat is probably bearable in shady areas on north facing problems. I made the mistake of projecting south facing problems in exposed areas! Seemed like a good idea at the time, quick drying, etc.

Whatever, I'll try and string it out for as long as possible as when this trip is over I have to get back to normality, find a job, etc

Duma

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#9 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 08, 2014, 10:35:24 pm
I'm guessing Gav meant le Surplomb de la mee?

ghisino

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#10 Re: When Font gets hot...
March 09, 2014, 04:09:52 am
I can help with a few tips and problem/area suggestions...

-invest in some ecogrip if you xan find it. Makes a big difference in warm conditions, for me at least.
-longer problems and roofs are usual warm weather choices among the locals.
-globally shady areas tend to work better than isolated shady problems.
-whenever you take a long rest, brush with water, wipe excess off with a cloth and wait till the hold is completely dry. (cools off the hold!). Usually this gives you 1 or 2 very good tries.

warm weather areas and problems:
-apremont envers. Everything around clandestino, priapisme.
-gorges du houx. Gargantoit and its sitstarts.
-elephant: the traverses at "bout du monde", the roof with smatch, air Sweden, etc.
-richer canon: la baleine and nearby probs.
-cuvier est(duroxmanie etc)
-all franchard, but esp. north facing probs like l'arrache Coeur, pensees cachees (and its trav extension) etc.
-richer du souris (yogi, extraction terrestre, and nearby problems.)
-le plafond @dame jouanne.
-futebol
-buthiers canard. The other new area near buthiers whose name I can't remember, you only want to check out the problem called "blozone" anyway.
-if you have 10 pads, good orientation and balls, Fahrenheit something is supposedly the coldest prob on font. 30 moves on the disturbingly thin ceiling of a cave lost in coquibus...hard to find, bad landing, looks like it could collapse right now...
-go on bleau.info and check out the problems opened by Thierry gueguen. Several summer roofs. Also look at very active repeaters like Manuel  marques to find out what they go climbing in summer...

as for night climbing with lights.
I know of at least one climber who does it routinely, for time reasons rather than conditions.
Various kinds of wildlife might not like this. the above mentioned climber apparently had a funny time with a wild boar...
Depending on your sexual habits you really want to stay far away from bas cuvier after sunset, or the opposite way around?
« Last Edit: March 09, 2014, 04:19:27 am by ghisino »

 

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