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Llandulas Cave (Read 3225 times)

jimmykay

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Llandulas Cave
September 07, 2011, 07:20:40 pm
Went to Llandulas a couple of weeks ago and really enjoyed it. Thought it was a great little crag, and have  been really surprised by the quality of the A55 venues. Did a few of the tufa routes (great!) in the cave and managed the Wirral Whip. I was just wondering whether anyone (Doylo) could give me information on the two routes in the cave, 8b and 8a+? Which one is which? Also, when I was there somebody said that a boulder pad was potentially a good idea as the swing is pretty close to the deck. - I guess this would be a good distinguishing factor between the routes.

Upsidedown Gloom, which line of bolts is that?

And any beta would also be appreciated on any of these routes. As I said before, I was really impressed with the crag after always writing them off, and couldn't believe how dry the place was after/during torrential rain.

Cheers in advance!

nodder

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#1 Re: Llandulas Cave
September 07, 2011, 07:26:03 pm
http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2010/06/temple-of-gloom.html

Temple of gloom is the left hand one if you have your back to the dribbly wall. 
Think the other one is the one he used a bouldering mat on.


Doylo

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#2 Re: Llandulas Cave
September 07, 2011, 11:17:16 pm
Good one on the Dulas psyche Jimmy, :thumbsup:  i love it. No access restrictions, no tides, reliable conditions, close to the road, well good.  Looking out of the Cave Temple is the left hand route.  Morpho font 7a+ish first couple of bolts before easier but sustained climbing and a redpoint crux as you leave the steepness.  Great jug to jug move to gain the ledge and then quest up Zoidberg 6c and take a moment to appreciate your surroundings as you summit through the blowhole.  Robins and Dyer repeated it. Pete thought 8a+ but then A: he doesn't think he can climb 8b quickly despite being an 8c+ climber (he thinks Stiff Upper Lip is 8a+ too, never is)  and B: He's surprised when he finds a French 8b power endurance roof steady after spending a lot of his life climbing Font 8b power endurance roofs. It took Dyer about as long to do as The Brute so i think i got it right (soft 8b i think).
Last Crusade starts just to the right.  Its is less cruxy than Temple but more power endurancy.  I think its actually better climbing despite being not quite as meaty a line.  The last moves on slopey sidepulls and heels are great.  I had to skip the last 3 bolts as i was too powered out to clip them. You can defo clip the top two if you've got something left. A pad on the obvious ledge would still be prudent though. This will be in my new routes film.
As you look into the cave there are two lines opposite each other that climb to the same sling in the roof.  The last move of both is to grab the sling (if its good enough for Raindogs!).  The righthand one is a shit 7a but the left (Upside Doom) is actually pretty good powerful climbing and worthwhile i think.  I thought maybe 7c+ but Robins thought 7c (theme developing here).  I'd love someone to try it (and the other two) and tell me what they think. Let me know if you do, and there's always the new sectors too.....

jimmykay

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#3 Re: Llandulas Cave
September 08, 2011, 07:13:29 pm
Thanks!! I'm in NW this weekend and Sunday looks like a washout everywhere so I'll be there then. The lines all look mega steep! Awesome. Psyched to try Stiff upper lip and head to the Diamond at some point as well, I've always thought the Little Orme look amazing when looking at it from Parisella's. Although after a year of doss, I'm back to uni to become a teacher next week, so climbing time is going to be heavily reduced. Crap!

ding dong

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#4 Re: Llandulas Cave
September 08, 2011, 09:11:33 pm
mm, last time we went to dulas it was piss wet chris! he has been there a lot more than me though so perhaps i've been unlucky. also pigeons is notoriously damp, i think unless its good n windy this ones out too. good luck it has been very wet recently, but there is always something outside if yr keen enough!

Doylo

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#5 Re: Llandulas Cave
September 08, 2011, 09:38:20 pm
It was misty anywhere would have gopped out. trust me its more reliable than most places.   :yes:I reckon Pigeons will be a sorry state now with seepage on top. Stiff Upper original will probably be fine though

petejh

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#6 Re: Llandulas Cave
September 08, 2011, 10:01:46 pm
Didn't stop Dave Redpath and his buddy sending The Waiting Game today - 100% minging down the Diamond tonight, luckily I wasn't climbing!

Doylo

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#7 Re: Llandulas Cave
September 08, 2011, 10:05:13 pm
Yep you can't stop a scotsman who's in danger of going home empty handed! Nice one lads

 

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