[ghisino]

a specific kind of very cool indoor routes.
the routes are so cool i almost forget i'm pulling plastic, but i suck at them.

long for indoors. (15m)
medium overhang (30°) with some roofs thrown in
steady. Maybe one true rest, but no "shake ups"
fat, pinchy, slopey holds that are as cool as hard. you need to squeeze/compress/keep good tension all the time.
Not extreme moves, but often "uncomfortable". every hold is a bit angled and feet are sometimes not where you want them to be

what happens on this routes is that i am forced to climb faster than i would like, and as a result i either miss some micro-shakes i can do before a crux when climbing at a slower pace, or i make beta mistakes.

i am not in control of them, and they all leave me feeling shit-pumped even when i seemingly clip the chains "easily".

i want/need to do the best quick fix i can do in 3/4 sessions, knowing that only one of them can be at the same wall and that especially the holds are unique for the area (no walls carrying the same brand)

[Monolith]

This is one of the most confusing requests for training advice I've ever seen.

Are you struggling with hold geometries?

[ducko]

sounds too me like you just need too climb more, try climb routes with similar holds

[Nibile]

you can try to shake out at every hand movement. while you go for a hold, you squeeze your fist or quickly shake before getting the hold. it works for me, on routes i do it from the start.

[ghisino]

Are you struggling with hold geometries?

yes, and with route setting.

if i had to sum it up in one sentence, @ this particular venue the setters seem very good at making sure that hanging straight-armed from a hold is hard and not very rewarding, and that a "fast" pace would be miles easier than a slow one on redpoint.

of course, this complicates things on onsight : it is never impossible, but never "sure", an the more i try to be in control of the route, the more i get pumped.
In 2 weeks i will "need" to onsight some indoor routes and if the setting and hold selection are similar, it will be a coin toss. But i wouldn't like it to be a coin toss!!!


@nibile
that's the problem! At the same grade i can have a micro-shake at every move in other gyms, because of the holds shapes and setting. Onsighting feels as predictable as a hangboard routine : there is a grade that is just too hard, and everything easier than that grade is 99% sure.

This gym is different, and i wonder if it is showing some weakness i can work on, or if i just have to take it as it is and hope i don't get the same treatment.

[boulderingbacon]

are you training for an indoor comp or something ? seems to me like you just need to clear your mind a bit and just flow through the moves rather than let the route get to you before you have even climbed it.  i was always told, slow and smooth, smooth is fast.

[SA Chris]

Spending a week climbing at Ceuse would be good training for getting better at climbing indoor routes like that

[ghisino]

are you training for an indoor comp or something ? seems to me like you just need to clear your mind a bit and just flow through the moves rather than let the route get to you before you have even climbed it.  i was always told, slow and smooth, smooth is fast.

It was a pre-selection test to later become climbing instructor/guide in france, the climbing part of it went extremely well and i'm happy about it, altough i don't know the overall results yet for bureaucracy reasons...


your answer really gave me the key : over the last two weeks i've tried to implement some "confidence-building" tricks and it definitely helped.
According to my fellow candidates who have seen me climb i've been one of the few to climb smoothly and seemingly without pressure, according to myself i've managed to fall in the zone despite having my heart racing at 180 bpm the night before...
3 tops for 3 routes without even having a huge margin, half grade more and i could have fallen quite easily.

thanks again.

[mrjonathanr]

Felicitations -et maintenant l'etron commun?

[ghisino]

Felicitations -et maintenant l'etron commun?

not yet.

i first have to wait until next tuesday to know if the guys liked my multi-pitch CV and how i aswered their questions...

if the result is that they liked me, it will be a tough year of economic sacrifice (or being lucky that i find a grant), "studying" climbing in the details, then yes fucking tronc commun (french sports law, how to run and manage a sports club, general sports physiology...all in one exam. close to 1000 pages to read and metabolize. fuck it, my engineering exams were easier!)
and uh did i mention starting canyon descents from zero?

(that was just to make a little advertising saying that it is a serious thing and that even if i won't become one, i can tell you for sure that many "BE" are proper training coaches and proper guides, even if they have this unjustified reputation of being potheads .
Sometimes they are also proper instructors for beginners but that seems to depend on personality.
Wanna go trad climbing on fatima's hand in Mali but you don't have a clue about the logistics? There's at least one BE i know of that can set up your expedition in the details...)

yet hopefully if you pass the first test you are supposed to be man enough to run through the grinder...