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Bad moon rising, Thorn crag (Read 1546 times)

Dirty Lion

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Bad moon rising, Thorn crag
March 09, 2011, 11:08:09 pm
Anyone got any beta for this problem? Struggling to find a way to get the sharp pinchy/sidepull thing with my left hand. Going up to it from the goodish hold below seems a little uncontrolled as I just barn door off, I can get it ok with my left toe still on the flake and my right hand low in the slot but then cant make the move up again with my right hand to the next hold.  :shrug: fantastic problem, will be nice to get it done

jakes

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#1 Re: Bad moon rising, Thorn crag
March 15, 2011, 06:13:39 pm
From the start I remember going to the slot(s) RH and then getting the good hold/edge LH (i.e. the one beneath the sharp pinch), heel around the arete and RH up to slopy/dishy(?) thing (crimp it off), then feet onto the face and push into the sharp pinch (get it as a sidepull). After this L heel into the pocket (where the 'good edge' is) and go LH up to the 'Bad Moon sloper'. This is all from memory, so comes attached with an appropriate disclaimer in regards to accuracy etc. etc. etc.

GCW

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#2 Re: Bad moon rising, Thorn crag
July 29, 2011, 03:45:10 pm
Please note the starting flake is visibly flexing, and I don't think it's going to last very much longer.

Richie Crouch

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#3 Re: Bad moon rising, Thorn crag
July 30, 2011, 11:47:07 am
I remember going up from flake to good pocket for RH, LH out to a sidepull/crimp, right outside edge on and up to dish RH. switch feet and paste them higher then swing hips out right, then back left and dyno left for the amazing sloper. Squeeze! Right heel on and over the top to the good holds.


andy_e

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#4 Re: Bad moon rising, Thorn crag
July 30, 2011, 12:28:22 pm
Crouch has been on it, explains why the flake's loose.

 

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