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Chee Dale 7's (Read 11370 times)

Krank

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#25 Re: Chee Dale 7's
June 10, 2011, 04:23:33 pm
thanks again everyone, heading down the cornice on sunday so i will check out whats there.

Gus

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#26 Re: Chee Dale 7's
June 10, 2011, 06:40:41 pm
Can't recommend "stung" 7b+ on nettle buttress enough, it's awesome and has surprisingly good holds!!

Worth the wade!!

Bonjoy

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#27 Re: Chee Dale 7's
June 10, 2011, 09:04:13 pm
It's even better if you start up Esmerelda. You end up doing a straight line route which takes in the best bits of the two routes.
Did Dirty Old Man yesterday. Very good. Seemed more 7c than 7c+, but I can imagine the crux feeling a lot harder for shorter climbers.

andy popp

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#28 Re: Chee Dale 7's
June 10, 2011, 09:24:38 pm
Amidst all this Diddy Dirty someone should say that Naive is itself a great route, second only to Cordless on the Cornice at that grade - come to think of it has anyone said you should do Cordless?

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#29 Re: Chee Dale 7's
June 10, 2011, 09:33:42 pm
agree with why me. quintessential boulderiser's route, the bottom is about e1 once you have a sequence then nice and burly on a lurvly pinch.

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#30 Re: Chee Dale 7's
June 10, 2011, 11:12:29 pm
Can’t recall exactly how crimpy it is but Sea is a Brown Paper Bag is the best 7b+ in the dale and on great rock.

good, yes. Crimpy? very.

Norton Sharley

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#31 Re: Chee Dale 7's
June 11, 2011, 10:11:13 am
Amidst all this Diddy Dirty someone should say that Naive is itself a great route, second only to Cordless on the Cornice at that grade - come to think of it has anyone said you should do Cordless?

Naive was a great route until the top crux undercut fell off.  Naive is now very unbalanced and is superceded by Dirty Old Man.  Both Old Man River and Dirty Old Man are harder for the short, especially the latter.  But they're only grades.

cofe

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#32 Re: Chee Dale 7's
July 12, 2011, 01:05:12 pm
Sorry for the punter question, but how are you supposed to clip the lower off on Breamtime? Off the mono (me no like), grab the chain, something else? Ta.

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#33 Re: Chee Dale 7's
July 12, 2011, 01:32:22 pm
I've no idea, but add Succubus to the list above. 7b+ with good varied climbing and no nasty holds.

Krank

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#34 Re: Chee Dale 7's
July 12, 2011, 01:36:00 pm
how are you supposed to clip the lower off on Breamtime? Off the mono (me no like), grab the chain, something else? Ta.

man up and clip off the mono ;) or keep going to the top.

cofe

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#35 Re: Chee Dale 7's
July 12, 2011, 02:13:27 pm
how are you supposed to clip the lower off on Breamtime? Off the mono (me no like), grab the chain, something else? Ta.

man up and clip off the mono ;)

that's what I was afraid of. is that the end of it though?

Krank

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#36 Re: Chee Dale 7's
July 12, 2011, 03:11:26 pm
i hope so, i clipped off the mono then then slumped onto the rope before my finger snapped, im takin the tick

cofe

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#37 Re: Chee Dale 7's
July 12, 2011, 03:43:12 pm
I would. I don't think I can justify clipping off the mono though. Sport climbing, eh? Funny old game.

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#38 Re: Chee Dale 7's
July 12, 2011, 05:59:29 pm
I recon extend the belay with a long draw, clip off the undercut, climb up into mono then tag the chain. Or sack it and do a better set route.

 

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