[Nike Air]

Belayed the wife trying this, she was wondering if the vulcan pocket has lost a bit off it, she thought it a pretty stiff move to gain it and hold it. Looks a great route though.
Cheers

[JC]

she was wondering if the vulcan pocket has lost a bit off it

Not as far as i know,  i did it last summer and the pocket was smaller than i expected it to be. It is a tough bouldery crux which is to be expected really as the climbing before that is relatively easy. I know some folk reckon it is one of the easiest 8a's in the peak! It is a cool route though.

[account_inactive]

she was wondering if the vulcan pocket has lost a bit off it

Not as far as i know,  i did it last summer and the pocket was smaller than i expected it to be. It is a tough bouldery crux which is to be expected really as the climbing before that is relatively easy. I know some folk reckon it is one of the easiest 8a's in the peak! It is a cool route though.

I'd agree with what you say apart from the "cool route" bit

[Paul B]

I'm with Dylan, it joins the likes of Salar for best candidate of a move that'd be better at ground level.

[grimer]

What about the crux of Appointment With Death?

[account_inactive]

Best as a sport route

[Ethan]

I dunno, tend to agree with JC, definitely a good route and much better than Salar.

[Nike Air]

Thanks guys, that should answer her question.
Just a tip, dont walk back through the tunnel thinking you are onto a winner with an easier walk back, doubled the distance.......

[corniceman]

she was wondering if the vulcan pocket has lost a bit off it

Not as far as i know,  i did it last summer and the pocket was smaller than i expected it to be. It is a tough bouldery crux which is to be expected really as the climbing before that is relatively easy. I know some folk reckon it is one of the easiest 8a's in the peak! It is a cool route though.

Eclipse next door has an almost identical move to DGM but a bit harder. Well worth doing.

[JC]

Yeah i cleaned it up last year and did it as well. Thought the climbing was really cool. Prob not 8b though.

Also repeated your route Superocity which i thought was slightly harder than Eclipsed and also good.

[Ethan]

Another one down there that I thought had a very similar crux move to Glue Machine was Yorkshire 8b. Probably not far off being the same in grade too.

[Paul B]

with our without the original finish?

[JC]

The original finish on Yorkshire 8b looks very shit now. I think it lost holds or something and it seems pointless trying to move right at the top anyway. It doesn't seem to lead anywhere either. I think anyone who goes on it these days will naturally finish up and left, cos its much more pleasant.

[Nike Air]

she was wondering if the vulcan pocket has lost a bit off it

Not as far as i know,  i did it last summer and the pocket was smaller than i expected it to be. It is a tough bouldery crux which is to be expected really as the climbing before that is relatively easy. I know some folk reckon it is one of the easiest 8a's in the peak! It is a cool route though.

Did it the other day, although being a tiny awkward hold to get in control it was not to bad as like you say getting there aint to bad. I thought it was cool too.
thx

[fatdoc]

my 1st 8a...

22 yrs + ago


I'l get me coat....

Joe P & Joe H  & matty bought me 5 pints in the Porters after pickin me up hitchin frm the crag... midweek. ( never met them before) more calories than I'd had in a month...

jumpers for goal posts... lump in throat...

[corniceman]

Yeah i cleaned it up last year and did it as well. Thought the climbing was really cool. Prob not 8b though.

Also repeated your route Superocity which i thought was slightly harder than Eclipsed and also good.

I am glad you did Superocity as I didnt realise it had had a second ascent. I was never quite as pleased with that one as I was monsterocity as it did take some gluing, but thought it was a good addition with a nice set of moves up to the roof and even around the roof. I agree it is harder than Eclipsed and its a shame it missed Zippy's new routes supplement.