[douglas]

Can anyone recommend a few 7C+'s to go at during my visit next month?

Criteria:
Skin friendly,
Long (I'm weak),
Reachy (I'm long)
Crimpy (I'm weak open handed),
Classic (I will only have one pad),
Not 7C.

Thank you

[account_inactive]

Cote de schezuan hits all those targets

[douglas]

It looks brilliant. Thanks!

[Nibile]

with one pad you don't even cover the final dyno!!!
it will be padded out though!!!

[RASTATA]

don't want to spoil the party, but Cote de Sechuan is not 7c+ if you are tall. That don't means that is any way less amazing problem, just dyno on the end is way easier if you are tall (as dynos usually are)
you should still go & do that amazing boulder regardless of the grade!!

 

[douglas]

Does the jump really add a grade? I've seen some videos and it looks easy. But on that note, are there any others that might fit the bill?

[RASTATA]

it's easy if you are tall, so yes you are right it doesn't add a grade 
i wouldn't care much about grade 7c or 7c+ it doesn't matter, you should still go and do the problem, it's truly amazing

[douglas]

it doesn't matter, you should still go and do the problem, it's truly amazing

Ok, cheers!

[RASTATA]

ah yes let me answer on the other question
Down under ticks almost all your criteria except skin friendliness (it's very sharp) and it's not very nice problem (for me anyway) but it's proper 7c+
Free for all is another one, short crimpy arete, again 7c+
Schnee sturm is again crimpy one, except you need couple of pads for this one and you'll climb this one just for the 7c+ tick, left version Schnee breet gets 7c nut it's way better problem
Left hand of darkness some people call it 7C+ (i think it's 8a) but you don't need many pads, it's long and it's crimpy

Magic wood has many nice boulders in different grades so on your place i wouldn't limited myself with one particular grade!

[douglas]

Thanks for the beta. That's great. I appreciate it!

[account_inactive]

I'd say that it's certainly harder that the other 10 7c's I've done in magic wood and also not that dissimilar to some of the 8a's. I'm sure it is easier for the tall but then again all climbing is easier for the tall.  Which guide book has it been downgraded in or is this just your opinion btw?

[account_inactive]

Schnee breet is an eliminate from 2 random start holds (pura vida start) and is shit. The left hand of darkness has a hold that will skin your fingers at this time of year.

[RASTATA]

yes its my opinion. but as we know grades are very personal and i found for example Piranha much harder then Cote de sechuan. but on the end of the day if it's 7c or is 7c+ is pretty much the same isn't it?

oh and the problem you talking about is SchneeSturm (pura vida start) and i agree with you that is not that good (see above), i was suggesting the left start ( as one summer in paradise) which is called Schneebrett

[Andy B]

I think the pad count could be the biggest issue here. I had at least three pads for all of the suggestions so far, and the only one I would have been happy using a single pad for would be Down Under, and maybe Free for All.

Do you mean Left Hand of Darkness or Right Hand? As the Left Hand has a very droppable (onto your back) finish on slopers. As opposed to the Right hand, which finishes on big holds.

The left hand of darkness has a hold that will skin your fingers at this time of year.

I did both of these in mid summer without skin issues, but I did the crux off the two finger pocket, as that crimp above it used to be smaller. It's always cool enough in that cave I reckon.

Schnee Sturm is an eliminate from 2 random start holds (pura vida start) and is shit.

It has a random start, but the move it adds is quality. The way I viewed this block is that the two aesthetic lines were One Summer, and Shnee Sturm as they were the two straight lines that crossed each other.