UKBouldering.com

Longevity of Solutions (Read 6461 times)

weakdave

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 649
  • Karma: +15/-0
  • Technically lacking
Longevity of Solutions
March 02, 2011, 02:28:12 pm
Are Solutions a better build quality than other La Sportiva models. I have had a few pairs of Katanas and the died quick deaths, miuras lasted of and miura vs were great but stretched massively very quickly. DO SOlutions stretch much and does that little strp fastener last? Looks a bit flimsy to me!!!!

Tom de Gay

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 258
  • Karma: +40/-0
#1 Re: Longevity of Solutions
March 02, 2011, 03:03:39 pm
Mine stretched a lot, then the strap broke. They were good while they lasted though.

andybfreeman

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 233
  • Karma: +12/-1
#2 Re: Longevity of Solutions
March 02, 2011, 03:09:17 pm
The straps are a major issue. They've snapped on every pair I've owned due to the eyelets getting rusty from foot sweat then the corroded edged eating the thin straps!

Other than that i think they last pretty well. I wouldn't bother getting them resoled though as the uppers seem to be designed to last as long as the sole, no more.

The uppers are suede so you'll get half a size or so of stretch. I couldn't get into my last paid without pastic bags but after a week they were perfect

andyd

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1173
  • Karma: +52/-2
    • https://vimeo.com/user14959179
#3 Re: Longevity of Solutions
March 02, 2011, 05:10:49 pm
mine have lasted more than a year.  they fit perfectly.  i carry them everywhere, try every hard problem in them, get frustrated, then put on my dragons because they're infinitely better. 

Iesu

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 474
  • Karma: +10/-3
#4 Re: Longevity of Solutions
May 27, 2011, 04:41:15 pm
The straps are a major issue. They've snapped on every pair I've owned due to the eyelets getting rusty from foot sweat then the corroded edged eating the thin straps!

Other than that i think they last pretty well. I wouldn't bother getting them resoled though as the uppers seem to be designed to last as long as the sole, no more.

agreed - wouldn't touvh them with yours until they "invest" in either plastic or stainless eyelets. disclaimer: I have sweaty feet

Yoof

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 183
  • Karma: +14/-0
#5 Re: Longevity of Solutions
May 28, 2011, 11:04:51 am
Dunno too much about them as I don't own them, but the rubber toe blob on my freind's pair lifted up (a little bit) as soon as he toehooked t'uther day. Though that may have just been due to shoddy footwork  ;)

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#6 Re: Longevity of Solutions
May 28, 2011, 11:08:58 am
I thought they were amazing for three months, then they bagged out and I realised I hated their appearance on the end of my leg. I relegated them to a wall shoe, then to add insult to injury the strap snapped.

Undoubtedly a good shoe initially, but with poor staying power.  Good in the cave.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20293
  • Karma: +642/-11
#7 Re: Longevity of Solutions
May 28, 2011, 12:24:33 pm
I know Robl sent his back after the strap broke and got a new pair back.. (after 2-3 months of lightish useage - he doesnt use his feet much ;) )

boulderingbacon

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 235
  • Karma: +6/-4
#8 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 04, 2011, 11:50:10 pm
really aggressive fitting shoe but so comfy. like others have said buy as tight as possible and let them stretch. only thing there not good for is small edges but there not really designed for that.

Nick B

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 117
  • Karma: +13/-1
#9 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 04, 2011, 11:55:06 pm
I've had two pairs and the straps on all 4 shoes have broken....

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3095
  • Karma: +150/-5
#10 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 05, 2011, 11:57:09 am
I wouldn't get another pair. They're great for toe hooking, but I don't really like the heals and the sole quickly lost its shape. I'd look at the Scarpa Instinct - similarish toe (quite pointy, but the turn down toe will probably last longer and the heal feels loads better to me). Generally I've found Scarpas to be really hardwearing.

RichK

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 174
  • Karma: +4/-0
#11 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 05, 2011, 10:26:00 pm
I wouldn't get another pair. They're great for toe hooking, but I don't really like the heals and the sole quickly lost its shape. I'd look at the Scarpa Instinct - similarish toe (quite pointy, but the turn down toe will probably last longer and the heal feels loads better to me). .
:agree:

Iesu

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 474
  • Karma: +10/-3
#12 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 06, 2011, 02:02:54 pm
apologies if this sounds narky (didn't get much sleep over the weekend...), but isn't it a bit pointless recommending/slating shoes based on "the toe/heel/arch does/doesn't fit my feet really well/extremely poorly", given that pretty much everyone's feet are totally individual?

I can totally see the point of saying "I have extraordinarily large, hairy hobbit like feet; so if you do too these shoes will *probably* fit you good too"

my two penneth workth is that the solutions had the best heel i've ever tried (large, hairy hobbit like feet), but then I sized mine on the "reasonably" comfortable side, not ultra tight bound feet inducing performance style.

/rant

sorry

al123

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 161
  • Karma: +2/-3
#13 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 06, 2011, 06:22:43 pm
I wouldn't get another pair. They're great for toe hooking, but I don't really like the heals and the sole quickly lost its shape. I'd look at the Scarpa Instinct - similarish toe (quite pointy, but the turn down toe will probably last longer and the heal feels loads better to me). .
:agree:
:agree:   instincts are shit hot.

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#14 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 07, 2011, 09:20:02 am
I've had 2 pairs of solutions and really rated them. Never had the strap snap on either pair and they were both worn for over a year (mainly on polished limestone but also in font/swiss/coastal stuff)

The heel works perfectly for some stuff being quite hard and the rubber toe patch is very grippy.

The downsides are the toes losing their points and rounding off a bit fast and the rubber toe patch peeling back if you do a lot of toe hooking.

I prefer Teams to them now for a steep ground shoe as they feel a bit more sensitive and easier to grab holds with. The narrow heel works better on a fair bit of stuff as well.

DaveyDave

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 132
  • Karma: +5/-0
#15 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 07, 2011, 11:20:12 am
I prefer Teams to them now for a steep ground shoe as they feel a bit more sensitive and easier to grab holds with. The narrow heel works better on a fair bit of stuff as well.

Let's hope, I just bought a pair! Now all I've got to do is bear the pain of heaving my feet into them and keeping them on for more than one problem while they're breaking in...

By the way, about solutions... You always see like, 50% of people in top competitions wearing them. Is that a sponsorship thing or do people really rate them that much?

Robl

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 136
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • A bit of an animal
#16 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 07, 2011, 12:12:57 pm
I know Robl sent his back after the strap broke and got a new pair back.. (after 2-3 months of lightish useage - he doesnt use his feet much ;) )

The man speaketh the truth I do have shoddy footwork! The strap was wearing though so I sent them back and am awaiting a new pair in the snail mail.
I've just wrapped a bit of finger tape round the part of the strap where its tight against the metal ring should stop it wearing again.

I personally really rate them they're downturned enough to be good on steep stuff yet soft enough to smear with.
My weapon of choice on all but tiny edges, where a stiffer toe with better edges is needed. I climbed everything I did in Font with them. Even a  :ninja: slab






Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8004
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#17 Re: Longevity of Solutions
June 12, 2011, 03:01:22 pm
I really like my Solutions, have had many pairs.
they do stretch.
the lace can break but can be easiy fixed with a piece of string. I have repaired mine and are absolutely fine.
even when worn out they retain their downturned shape and are still performant. they can be resoled by an expert resoler.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal