UKBouldering.com

In Praise of the Eagle Stone (Read 3011 times)

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 02:31:12 pm
And why not? A concentration of some of the most characterful mid-grade problems in the peak; all slopey technical highballs on bomber rough rock in a beautiful spot, with nice flat grassy landings. What more could you ask for?

Personally I found The Beagle Has Landed to be similar but better to Medaille de Chocolat at Apremont, and everyone knows that's a classic! Whereas the Eagle Stone seems like a bit of a forgotten venue. If you ain't been get yourself there now before it warms up and the problems become desperate. If you have been already feel free to praise the Stone...

dave

  • Guest
#1 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 02:34:27 pm
it is indeed very bo. only the quagmore that surrounds it at certain times of the year spoils it. that and the rampaging large-horned cattle.

Carnage

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1066
  • Karma: +29/-0
  • Pommie Bastard
#2 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 02:36:57 pm
Its true - Its a great spot with some cool problems.

Gotta disagree on the Beagle has landed tho'- Its a good problem but not a patch on La Medaille.

Fist full of Beagles is also pretty bo and the B5 groove thingy near the prow.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#3 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 02:53:22 pm
Thought someone might take issue! Horribly poffed footholds to a fantastic but eliminate jump vs nice body postion stuff to gain beaut bony crimps to a similar non-eliminate move, plus a "bonus scene" slopey top out. Each to their own!

Fist Full... is brill, one of the hardest top-outs I've done in the Peak, and not easy to get there from the back either.

Carnage

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1066
  • Karma: +29/-0
  • Pommie Bastard
#4 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 03:06:07 pm
Just liked Medaille 'cos the jump is bigger!!

On the BHL its more of a quick slap to the break line. Did enjoy the top-out tho. Especially if you do it pure and don't go leftwards slightly for the sidepull thingy.

Fist full top-out I found fucking heinous and the roof bit ok. Ended up bellying it kind of. No grit skills!!

Kim

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 528
  • Karma: +13/-1
#5 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 03:20:12 pm
Quote from: "Carnage"
On the BHL its more of a quick slap to the break line. Did enjoy the top-out tho. Especially if you do it pure and don't go leftwards slightly for the sidepull thingy.


 :oops:  i was definately unpure on the top out... :D have u done the one to the right of it (B7 in pbg i think)? only had a quick try but seemed harder to me...

Carnage

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1066
  • Karma: +29/-0
  • Pommie Bastard
#6 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 03:22:05 pm
Nah, I couldn't do it. It seemed well hard for B7  :cry:

dave

  • Guest
#7 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 03:22:39 pm
that ones carayzy - slap of a mono to some ill slopers.

fatboySlimfast

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1557
  • Karma: +49/-1
#8 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 03:28:06 pm
Thank fuk someone else thinks that! You double it to the slopers cos there so crap you have to get as much skin on as poss, esp if your bit shrimpy

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#9 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 03:37:43 pm
Mmmmm Eagle Stone, would probably make it onto my Desert Island boulders list.

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#10 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 03:38:56 pm
Hmm, can hit the top and stick it with one hand for about a second every time, but have yet to complete it. Big Chris who is, as his name implies - a big lad  :wink: throws laps on it like a frenchie on a slab...

dave k

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 375
  • Karma: +7/-1
#11 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 08:41:27 pm
It gets my vote. It is definitely a super boulder. Have you heared the history. Any young lads from Curber used to prove their manhood and claim local maidens hand by climing it. The easy way I expect, but pre chips.

Try the prow left of BHL next time. Straight over is the best problem on the boulder.

The B7 right of BHL can be done in two ways- the key is an undercling with the left hand. Get the feet set right, then the poor crimp with the right, staying in balance, left hand on the mono, then the top. Not bad if you get it right.

otherwise go straight from the undercling for the top, if you are a lanky boy. Not that i am.

chappers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1218
  • Karma: +26/-1
#12 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 01, 2004, 10:26:07 pm
ive only been once, tried the good the bad and the beagle on a wet day in january (felt Vhard). but looks totally ace and i gotta go back! but right now a problem at trowbarrow is stopping me goin anywhere else!

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#13 In Praise of the Eagle Stone
March 02, 2004, 07:19:38 am
can't believe I've not been there :shock:
once me shoulder and elbow and wrist get better and I've come back from andora - I'm there

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal