[lukeinaz]

I have just began a max recruitment phase following a very good hypertrophy phase.  I am using difficult bouldering as my main resource.  My first training session I sent a problem that was a personal best for me.  Next session was about normal.  I am wondering how rested I need to be to take full advantage of the recruitment.  Ideally I would like to rest no longer than 60 hours however I am probably not fully rested until 72 hours.  Is it ok to squeeze more sessions in even if I am not feeling 100% on.  Thanks!

[shark]

If you are solely focussing on absolute strength/power then full recovery between sessions is the way I would go. You will probably find you recover more quickly between sessions as you do a few more and get used to it.

Disclaimer: I'm not very strong

[douglas]

I would be okay to train tired as long as you rest properly after a few of these sessions to regaina and surpass your previous ability. This is basically dual factor training.

I'd be tempted to make your sessions shorter and climb more frequently. Finish fresh. 72 hours is too long with no climbing for me!

[ghisino]

Is it ok to squeeze more sessions in even if I am not feeling 100% on.

i think : yes if it's really more of a general "strenght" phase but then to see the benefits you should take several days off.
no if you're really pulling your hardest on single moves, i'd be concerned about injuries...




ps if it's really meant to be "recruitment", or only training the neuro-muscular factors of strenght, then the theory, as far as i understand, says:

-Very small volume  sessions. Stop really strong. Stop as soon as you feel "a bit worse than on my previous attempts". Eg, i'd say between 50 and 100 hard moves depending on your  tolerance to training.
-loooong rest between tries (at least 2 min, but 5' is ok too...and a longer 10' rest each 5 tries or so).
-you should be falling after barely making 2/3 moves and each of those 2/3 should feel at your limit. Really at your limit, not just "oh, i'm pulling hard"...they should require you to concentrate hard and psyche up even if they are the simplest campus-like moves ever.


if you do more volume, take shorter rests or climb full 6-10 moves problems, you're training your strenght in at the muscular level too. Nothing too bad, but it would explain why it takes you longer to recover....

[account_inactive]

72 hours! Maybe you overdid it a bit.  Overreach on your training and then rest up if you want to see a performance increase. (and yes Shark is very weak hahahaha)

[lukeinaz]

My sessions last 90-120 minutes with my focus on 4-5 problems.  Up to 4 attempts on each problem with plenty of rest in between.  I am suprised to hear that taking two full days off is saying I over did it.  I agree though, two days off is alot of time not climbing.  I guess I will try to tone down the intensity and try a day on day off routine.  Thanks for the replies.

[ghisino]

btw

of course the difference in performance between the 2 days can be the result of many things other than recovery.

what where the conditions at the climbing wall like? (humidity, temperature, #of people trying your same problem)
on the two days, did you train exactly at the same hour? Did you sleep, eat, work, drink exactly in the same way in the 24 hours before the two sessions? Were you in the same mental state?