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Who to believe about Font grades?

7's and 8's
The Purple Book
The BLue Off Piste
Bleau.info
A.N.Other
Pain aux Chocolat

Grades in Font (Read 2419 times)

Dr T

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Grades in Font
February 26, 2011, 10:41:45 pm
Loads of new smilies but none for opening a can of worms...
Being a geek who doesn't get out(side) enough I end up reading a lot of different guide books and it struck me that there is quite a range of opinions about grades in the forest.
Mostly the difference is a half or single grade but sometimes it's more; given the on-going debate about the grades in the Peak which source is the truth speaker??

Bubba

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#1 Re: Grades in Font
February 26, 2011, 11:56:15 pm
Loads of new smilies but none for opening a can of worms...
Error rectified  ;D

Code: [Select]
:worms:
:worms:

lagerstarfish

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#2 Re: Grades in Font
February 27, 2011, 09:35:11 am
The most accurate source is the one that agrees with me (or the one that is having the most fun)

I like the idea that in Font the difficulty:grades relationship can vary quite a bit, but in The Peak we expect Font grades to somehow be more consistent for everyone.

The natural British approach to any measuring tool is to have our own system that nobody else uses and develop/warp it to make it suit our purposes, but with Peak Font grades we are respectfully borrowing an elegant French system and taking a German approach to making it more consistent.

The Eurofighter turned out all right in the end and it meant that we didn't end up buying a load of F-22s from the US

pain au chocolat FTW

Durbs

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#3 Re: Grades in Font
February 27, 2011, 10:21:49 am
If you can do it, take the higher grade. If your mate can but you can't, take the lowest and blame conditions/shoes/patisserie.


lagerstarfish

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#4 Re: Grades in Font
February 27, 2011, 10:32:52 am
If you can do it, take the higher grade. If your mate can but you can't, take the lowest and blame conditions/shoes/patisserie.

I take the lower grade for the one's I can do, but my mate can't. The one's I can't do get the higher grade.

For the ones that my mate can do and I can't... oh wait, that never happens (unless I'm injured, sick, thinking about something else, hungry, thirsty, overfed etc)

For known unknowns I take 6c+. For the unknown unknowns I take 7b+; having as many guides as possible helps. There is always a page that can be creased in such a way that your mates will think it applies to where you are.

Lund

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#5 Re: Grades in Font
February 27, 2011, 11:20:17 am
Missing option!  Jingo wobbly.     :tumble:

Seriously... not sure.  Most of the time, I'd say whichever has had the greatest number of people thinking about it - whether that's a guidebook or not I don't know.  Bleau.info is probably as good as anything else, and stays up to date with lost holds and stuff - whereas the guidebooks go out of date.  However, the voting on bleau.info is probably next to useless as not many people actually register their repeats and vote on the grade.

If I had to choose, I'd go with 7+8.  I find the "morpho" bit very heartening; nothing like a reachy lankfest to make a shortarse feel bad.

Norton Sharley

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#6 Re: Grades in Font
March 01, 2011, 04:59:50 pm
Missing option!  Jingo wobbly.     :tumble:


You only said that so you could use the  :tumble: emoticon.

And where's the yoga icon Bubbs?  ;) 

Baldy

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#7 Re: Grades in Font
March 01, 2011, 06:42:38 pm
Gosh, would you look at all those new yellow things!

Personally I think the only fair option is to take the lowest bleau.info grade that has a reasonable number of votes.
That way you can act as if you are downgrading everything, while also claiming the grades from the books.

Which means you can be both smug and superior at the same time!

(incidentally I didnt read all the options and just clicked 7+8 since it is the only one I trust to get me to the bottom of the boulder I want to try)

 

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