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Black Rocks - c.7a, one pad, solo trip - top tips (Read 2007 times)

tommytwotone

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I'm off on a family holiday this weekend and despite having no part in the organisation, the cottage we've booked is in Bolehill, so minutes from Black Rocks, which is coincidentally the first place I ever bouldered, back in the 90s, sans pads, while at university. Will be good to get back on Railway Slab.


Looking like I may have a small window of time on Saturday. Will probably have an hour on my own, one pad scene. Keen to try something in the 7a range as my goal for the year is 3 of them, and I get very few days out nowadays.


Have spotted Hat Trick on peakbouldering.info which seems to fit the bill. Just wondering if anyone has any more top tips? Ned's Smears For Ears thing looks interesting but aware it might be a toughie.


NB I am a shortarse.

cheque

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Hat Trick would certainly fit the bill being really pretty lowball (the hole it finishes on is ~3m off the ground- it’s one of those that isn’t really a problem at all without the sit start) and quick to get to.

It’s hardly a classic though!

I’ve never tried Smears for Ears or beenwith anyone who was trying it so can’t help on that. It’s on the main side though so could well be wet- that bit doesn’t see the sun this time of year.

There’s also a 7a on the boulders at the top but it’s very new so might not really be 7a or any good. It could also be damp up there and it’ll eat into your hour finding it!

Bolehillbilly is really the guy you need- I imagine he’ll post soon.

tommytwotone

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Yeah, that's pretty much as far as I'd got - though given the iffy forecast it may be a moot point anyway. Have been referred to a few alternative, potentially more usable options but need to try and fit that round childcare / family.

bolehillbilly

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Assume you have transport? If it's damp something like Parklife at The P would be dry and fits the bill. If you need any info or maybe even an extra pad or spotter let me know, I might be around depending on weather.

old cheese

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I’m agree with bolehillbilly, other option are available if weather iffy. The P could be a good call depending on seepage. If crappy elsewhere I would be happy to join you at the p to show you around/along.

bolehillbilly

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Just been to The P.  Mostly dry from Parklife to Human Kind, wet at left side so plenty do do for a short visit.

Bonjoy

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Smears for Ears is great, it's not very high but does have a weird landing so might feel a bit gnarly with one pad. It's on fairly perma-clean rock from what I remember.

tommytwotone

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Just been to The P.  Mostly dry from Parklife to Human Kind, wet at left side so plenty do do for a short visit.

Cheers, will see how things pan out tomorrow. I'll drop you a PM once I've worked out what we're doing.

 

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