[Muenchener]

Supposing I were contemplating a short stop-off at Font en route by car from central Europe to the UK, what should I do? Where should I go to bag a few classic problems in the 6A/B range - ideally not highballs as I would be sans spotter and am a coward.

I've been to Font before, but that was in the 80s and a long time ago now. As I recall I've been to Cuvier, Apremont, 95.2. The only famous classic problem I've done that I can remember the name of is La Science Friction.

Also: this would unfortunately be in summer, so I suppose north facing/shady areas would be a plus. Or would the whole idea be a complete waste of time in summer?

[fried]

I'm not sure about famous problems, but if you're passing through in the summer good places would be ( I usually boulder alone , midweek and can't afford to break my ankles!)

Franchard Cuisiniere - Lots to go at in your grade range, shady under the trees, not too high and fairly popular, so you'd probably find a spotter.

http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/

Around Beauvais (just 'cos I was there yesterday), not too m(any)? well known problems, but shady, generally low with good landings, so you can work stuff easily, the red and black circuits at Beauvais Hameau look like they might be suitable.

http://beauvaisenblocs.free.fr/home.html

If it's very hot there's always Petit Bois

http://bleau.info/petit/

[erm, sam]

If I was going to font for 1 day I would go to Rocher Sabot. Great blue circuit, loads of tasty reds, nice picnic spot. Might be a bit hot, but all the 'shady good for summer' spots I have been to are acutally licheny and neglected.

[Lund]

If I was going to font for 1 day I would go to Rocher Sabot. Great blue circuit, loads of tasty reds, nice picnic spot. Might be a bit hot, but all the 'shady good for summer' spots I have been to are acutally licheny and neglected.

Sweet jesus.  You'd melt.  I'm not sure it matches the OP's criteria... the blue circuit doesn't fit in the 6A/B grade range, and the reds are in my experience sandbaggy.  Although I could just be weak.  Plus it would be packed with families and dutch people!!

I would say go somewhere in the shade with a nice black circuit that's not too high.  But then I couldn't think of one.  Drat.  Elephant has an accessible black circuit grade wise... and they're not too high... but there's dick all shade...

Maybe go to Roche aux Oiseaux?  I can't remember how shady it is though, but there are a fair few 6s there I think.  Download the topo from bleau.info before you go though and print it out.

[SA Chris]

I would say go for Cuisinere too. Will it be weekend or midweek? If weekend, avoid Sabots at all costs, as Lund says overrun.

[Muenchener]

Thanks for the tips: sounds like Cuisiniere makes it to the top of the shortlist. I don't think I was there before, but it was all so long ago it was still called 'bleau so I can't be sure.

This is all in the context of a planned Welsh Trad Nostalgia Pilgrimage, which - depending on observed performance on real rock in the coming weeks/months - might take place this summer or next.  Frau M has expressed very clear views on the subject of trad climbing: "it's a great idea, you should go", so the trip will be solo at least until the point where I meet up with some old friends in Manchester. So then I thought, well why not take in another destination or two along the way?

[Muenchener]

Around Beauvais

But wait. Now I'm confused. Is this the Beauvais that is known to maps.google.fr  but nowhere near Fontainebleau, or a different Beauvais that is near Fontainebleau but unknown to maps.google.fr? 

[seankenny]

I was there last July and it was really hot, but I did loads of climbing. Went to Beauvais, Franchards Cuisinere and Isatis, and Bois Rond. All those were fine for my fairly low-grade bouldering (6b+ max). I did go to Roche aux Sabots for an afternoon and it was rubbish, way too hot and horrible.

[lukeyboy]

I'd definitely recommend Cuisiniere, one of the best spots in the forest and nice and shady. Isatis is also a good choice (right next to cuisiniere), slightly busier and more polished though. Or if you wanted somewhere quieter, Petit Bois is very good (and also shady).

[fatdoc]

If I was going to font for 1 day I would go to Rocher Sabot. Great blue circuit, loads of tasty reds, nice picnic spot. Might be a bit hot, but all the 'shady good for summer' spots I have been to are acutally licheny and neglected.

 for  great day... this is fully right.

[SA Chris]

Around Beauvais

But wait. Now I'm confused. Is this the Beauvais that is known to maps.google.fr  but nowhere near Fontainebleau, or a different Beauvais that is near Fontainebleau but unknown to maps.google.fr? 

How near is near - the Beauvais areas are around the town which is just the other side of the A6.

[rodma]

Click on No10 on the map page on bleau.info for the beauvais areas, which are absolutely nowhere near Beauvais the airport town that Ryanair pretends is Paris.

[SA Chris]

Ah, that Beauvais.

Yes, it's definitely nowhere near.

[fried]

Glad that was cleared up while I was working

Just to add that Beauvais is generally unpolished and has grades that make sense (or are fair!).