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[Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
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[Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
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Bonjoy
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[Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 03:55:37 pm
Was pleased to complete a project I've been on for a while on Xmas eve.
It's a classic compression prow a la Mossatrosity, Brass Monkeys.
Not super sure on the grade. I spent ages trying it with an over complicated 8a sequence and then figured better beta, plus the start is at the limit of my reach, both make it hard to grade objectively. Forgive me if it turns out to be 7c.
It's on a roofy block about 100m further along the ridge from the standard Clifftop Boulder. It's on the same block as the Sheep Dip (see new Froggatt guide).
Start on an undercut boss and the left arete below the roof and climb the prow. Side blocks on left are out, this is obvious but thought I'd best mention.
Here's a some pics taken by Jamie Lilleman.
p.s. As per my own suggestion on reporting new stuff. Details: 24-12-10, climbed with Jamie Lilleman, Iain Farrar, Kim Thompson and Dan Ogden.
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Last Edit: December 28, 2010, 04:12:55 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: Kim also out
»
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uptown
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#1 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 03:59:01 pm
Nice!
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dave
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#2 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 03:59:59 pm
looks good word.
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andy_e
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#3 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 04:15:50 pm
Quality toe-hook action going on.
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Paul B
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#4 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 04:36:37 pm
Rock sox prevailed?
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Tommy
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#5 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 05:02:45 pm
Nice one Bonjoy. To get there do you drive up the back past Robin Hood's Stride (on your left) then past that working quarry on your left, then head down the hill a little bit? Near to where the shooting happens on the right??
I don't have any new bouldering guides or Froggatt guide so a bit in the dark!
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Bonjoy
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#6 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 05:44:53 pm
Yeah that sounds right Tom. The crag is on fields below the disused quarry, which is mostly used for trial biking rather than shooting these days.
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SA Chris
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#7 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 07:09:36 pm
Nice. Some quality abstract compressionism going on there.
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andy_e
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#8 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 07:12:17 pm
I just thought of something geeky to do with compression. Need to get a life.
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Jim
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#9 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 28, 2010, 08:48:22 pm
nice one Jon, saw Kim & Dan the day before and they mentioned something about this.
Has it had a 2nd ascent yet?
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Bonjoy
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#10 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 29, 2010, 09:59:45 am
No, the second ascent is still up for grabs if you're keen Jim.
Quote from: Paul B on December 28, 2010, 04:36:37 pm
Rock sox prevailed?
It was useful having rubber on the top, but with the improved beta it wasn't crucial.
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Andy B
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fishie in a dishie
#11 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 29, 2010, 05:16:42 pm
Looks really good. Is there any potential for alternative sequences for those of a stumpy armed disposition?
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Bonjoy
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#12 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 29, 2010, 06:20:52 pm
I reckon there must be a way. Maybe a jump or a heel round the start boss.
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cofe
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#13 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 29, 2010, 06:31:28 pm
I'm pretty keen to try this at some point. Good effort yoot.
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Andy B
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fishie in a dishie
#14 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 29, 2010, 09:12:07 pm
Compression, big spans and heels? It doesn't really sound like your cup of tea.
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Jim
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#15 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
December 29, 2010, 10:06:58 pm
question is, is he going to traverse off just below the top?
I am also keen to try this at some point although I think I will have trouble spanning the holds
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Bonjoy
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#16 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
January 10, 2011, 01:53:12 pm
Video. Filmed and sounds added by Dan V - cheers yoot (nice choice, where is it from?).
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Bonjoy
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#17 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
January 10, 2011, 02:40:28 pm
Forgot to mention, on the same day that vid was taken Ned did another new prob on the same block.
The Furry Egg 7c+
starts as per TGE then flips to both hands on the front and toes on the back then up to a sloping boss and hence the top. The move up off the toehooks looks amazing. Some pics on KSP blog -
http://blog.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk/blog/_archives/2011/1/9/4722583.html
. I should point out that contrary to Keith's write-up Ned actually did TGE first go that day (after working but kindly not linking on a previous visit when it was still a project), his worn out skin was from repeatedly nearly doing The Ace in the morning.
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SA Chris
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#18 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
January 10, 2011, 02:47:55 pm
Did you thank everyone for spotting you afterwards
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Bonjoy
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#19 Re: [Peak][Clifftop Boulders][The Golden Egg][7c+]
January 10, 2011, 03:35:48 pm
No, but I did thank Kes for his guest appearance at 17 seconds
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