[cofe]

Anyone done the original/direct on this? Any knowledge? Still got a question mark next to it for new bouldering guide...

[tomtom]

The first rule of boulder club is.....

(that would be a  description for the guide)

[dave]

hasn't graham hoey got an account on here or was that just a wonderful dream?

[Scouse D]

thought we agreed that Hoey was doing what we did in the guidebook photo?

[cofe]

nah, he's rocking into the chipped jug in the middle with his hand on the chipped dink. reckon it's considerably harder, possibly mid-7.

[Andy B]

If only someone had told you that before! The same person would have already told you that you were unlikely to find anyone who'd done it recently because a hold had  broken, making it a fair bit harder, than before.

[cofe]

I'd be interested to know what and where had broken, as it's not at all obvious, and I had a very good look at the wall yesterday. I would guess that if something had broken it would be a small, delicate foothold just above the overlap, although there's no sign that's what it is. It feels like that's what the problem needs to make it climbable.

The right-hand is good climbing, at about 6c.