Being strong is always important, don't get me wrong, but believing in your ability to climb things makes such a difference. My mentality has shifted somewhat from knowing I'm strong enough to do hard moves to knowing I'm capable of getting to the top of things if I try hard. It's also not important to get intimidated.
Did your recent success in Hueco give you the confidence to try harder problems on grit?I think they did yes. It is always difficult to try a hard boulder problem if you don't have the confidence. Hueco was a good trip for me because it opened my eyes up to what was possible for me. When I returned, I found I had the confidence to try the problems I had always wanted to do and surely enough, I was in good enough shape to do them.
Objectively speaking, I know my crimp strength is my strong point and my body tension has improved no ends since climbing on the board a lot more - perhaps some time spent away from continually placing emphasis on the development of these areas is a good thing.
; bite the bullet and have no steep and crimpy stuff or still do a little but only once a week or so? Ta in advance for any replies
I have definetly noticed certain gains from really concentrating on this, but recognise I have certain weaknesses that aren't being trained by this.
QuoteI have definetly noticed certain gains from really concentrating on this, but recognise I have certain weaknesses that aren't being trained by this. What weaknesses have you recognised? I mean, if it is a grip weakness then doing isolated grip training on a fingerboard 3 times a week can be done alongside other training (board or otherwise). If it is a weakness in technique then just climb outside on real rock as much as poss and continue to train on board. I think I'm just justifying my own current (over)use of the board.