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Pinky traverse, Brimham
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Pinky traverse, Brimham
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andy_e
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Posts: 8836
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Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 09, 2010, 09:39:59 am
What's the beta for the last move to the flake? I can't work it out at all! Cheers.
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webbo
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#1 Re: Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 09, 2010, 11:25:49 am
pinky traverse doesn't go up the flake.you keep going round the arete.
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moose
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Lankenstein's Monster
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el flaco lento
#2 Re: Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 09, 2010, 11:35:07 am
The original version finishes around the arete - supposedly around 7c/+. The nu-skool copout tops out using the high flake at around 7b/+.
As I recall the beta for the final move was just to do a big throw from below! I remember it costing me a hell of a lot of skin over several sessions - repeatedly hitting the flake but not quite latching it. That said, I was working it on a succession of tremendously damp and humid July/August weekends and I climb with so little dynamism that I should be nailed to a trellis.
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Stabbsy
junky
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#3 Re: Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 10, 2010, 11:07:55 pm
Outside right on an obvious positive edge, big throw to flake, then sort of push down with your left on the sloper to get left foot up. Think I've got a photo of the move somewhere - I'll try and find it shortly.
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andy_e
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#4 Re: Pinky traverse, Brimham
November 10, 2010, 11:13:53 pm
Cheers. That sounds like what I was trying! Must try harder.
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