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Shit and Hemline at Higgar Tor (Read 3141 times)

Reprobate_Rob

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Shit and Hemline at Higgar Tor
November 09, 2010, 01:58:43 pm
Can anyone clear up exactly where these problems go?

I'd figured they both start from the back of the roof, and use the holds IN the roof to gain the nose where Piss starts, then either up Piss (for Shit) or Sick (for Hemline), but then I clocked a vid of Hemline on Vimeo where someone commented that Hemline doesn't use any holds below the lip.
The guide says that Hemline starts up Shit, so if neither Hemline or Shit uses the holds in the roof, what does, and where do they start/go?
 :shrug:

nai

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#1 Re: Shit and Hemline at Higgar Tor
November 09, 2010, 02:07:05 pm
They both come from the back of the roof with Shit finishing up Piss and Hemline finishing up Sick.

The comment about no holds under the roof is maybe about no feet on the big ledges out left?




Reprobate_Rob

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#2 Re: Shit and Hemline at Higgar Tor
November 09, 2010, 02:18:18 pm
Well that's what I figured at first, and what the fella in the video does (although his feet do stay on the ledges at the back for a while) but, to quote Andy Harris -

"afraid that's not Hemline. Hemline doesn't use any holds under the lip. It traverses the slopey lip with feet in the back. you've done a sort of pseudo hybrid of a few other problems."

For one thing I don't think my feet would stay on the back if my hands were traversing the lip, so I'll be using the roof holds for sure - probably for feet as well as hands - but I just wanted to clear up what does officially use the holds in the roof, if anything.

I only ask as I did Piss on Sunday (thanks for the beta by the way) and wanted to go back and get Shit done too.

nai

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#3 Re: Shit and Hemline at Higgar Tor
November 09, 2010, 02:24:59 pm
Well if it wasn't originally it seems to be what Hemline has become as both PDB and BMAB describe it that way.

Just noticed peak bloddering has an original listed:

http://peakbouldering.info/crags/9/boulders/121

I can give you Shit beta too if you like, hopefully that is Shit beta not shit beta.

And Hemline feels like piss once you've done Shit so you may as well knock them both off.

Reprobate_Rob

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#4 Re: Shit and Hemline at Higgar Tor
November 09, 2010, 02:32:05 pm
That clears that up then, thanks.

Didn't have a proper look at Shit on Sunday as I had other fish to fry but yeah, any tips would be much appreciated, cheers  :thumbsup:

nai

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#5 Re: Shit and Hemline at Higgar Tor
November 09, 2010, 03:02:38 pm
Memory's a bit vague as to the exact sequence but from the break back right of the roof, RH in two finger pocket, LH crimp, R drop knee & L foot jam/lock in the break, x-through RH for another crimpy thing.  LH to the crimpy sloper thing under the nose, shuffle feet around left, LF heel/toe in the shallow pocket out left, LH go again for the nose, RH match, release the heel/toe and you're on Piss.

highrepute

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#6 Re: Shit and Hemline at Higgar Tor
November 09, 2010, 03:15:22 pm
Hemline has become the problem you've seen in the vid and goes at 7a and is desribed as "start up shit finish up piss".

but it seems that the original was done differently, hence the comment from rich heap. The rockfax peak bouldering guide has it as "Start as for shit, span out to the lip and then traverse left along the lip to join sick" - make of that what you will.

I think there was a thread on here discussing the same thing but can't seem to find it. I think the conclusion was that know one is sure what the original line was.

Good luck on shit

EDIT: previous dicussion
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11932.msg206096.html#msg206096
« Last Edit: November 09, 2010, 03:37:59 pm by highrepute »

 

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