[TheCarlisleKid]

The problem on the arete of the Rabbitstone at Queens crag, soft for 8a??

[carlisle slapper]

yep defo although it is a weird move to grade, It looks even softer climbed as a flick move by lanky types as the difficulty is only in the weird mantle move (or thats what it was originally graded around), If done the original way then soft 8a is roughly right (only Ned has repeated it this way AFAIK and there is a reason why we put a ?mark on the vid of it), the other way looks way easier than slot (hard 7c+), but v morpho. Try feet of strength (right of border reiver) stout 7c+ and similar to red dragon in style, could even be harder and easily as good. Cracks in the shadows is much harder than RD too. QK is hard 7c+ these days since Rob did it with heels and cleaning. (how soon is now) Sitter to queen is dead is 7c to top it out. Power is on is 7b+ with the new beta at the end. worldine 7a+/b. hat full of hollows 7a+.
If there was actually somewhere online to update problems in the county then the last 5 years of grade changes wouldnt have passed by unnoticed, except for a random stone circles article which had some of the corrections in.

hope that helps.

[TheCarlisleKid]

Cheers that's really helpful.
Had a bit of a play on it last week, looks doable, but it was a little bit damp, but i'm really keen to go back and have a proper session on it. I think I might be able to use the lank sequence, but will still be claiming 8a due to chronic weakness! Had a look at Queen Kong briefly too, looks nails to me! 

Can't believe I've only just found out about this crag, its not far at all from where I live and the quality of problems is amazing.  Plenty to keep me busy.

[Drew]

Is this a 'conversation' between one person?

[willackers]

I think flicking for the move on Red Dragon is still quite hard as you have to hold a really bad barn door once you catch it, if you don't hold it it spits you of in a spin which is a little scary. I also don't think you have to be lanky (like me) to do it that way because your left foot which you are pushing off is so high, it's not short mans beta but you I don't think you have to be really tall. It's definitely worth trying it that way. It must be pretty soft because it was the first 8a I have done in a session and I had a terrible hangover 

[simes]

Is this a 'conversation' between one person?

I wondered about that. I considered creating another account in the name of  "The Carlisle Kid Slapper" and adding a few words of wisdom to the discussion.

[T_B]

I had about 100 goes at RD trying the lank method. It's hard even if you are tall. I could only just get the height and touch the hold, but was way off holding it. Now I don't climb 8a, but my guess is this method would be very hard if you are less than 6 foot. Even if you are over 6 foot I guess it feels like 7c+ at least.

[willackers]

The jump method is hard. The hardest part is holding the barn door once you catch the hold. I still think it's 8a that way......

What ever the grade it's a brilliant problem what ever method you use.

[T_B]

oops, already posted on this via mobilica last night. Agree it's a 3 star classic.

[TheCarlisleKid]

I'm pretty sure we're two separate people! http://ukbouldering.com/board/Smileys/ukbCustom/hmmm.gif

I've been back and tried the lank method I think its possible using this method for someone of my height (6'3) but struggling to hold the swing/barndoor. Feels hard, Haven't done enough bouldering at this grade to comment on the difficulty, but seems like 7c+/soft 8a is the consensus, not 7b like my mate told me! bloody sandbagger.

[willackers]

When I hit the hold and started to barn door I palmed the arete with my left hand to stop me spinning off. It took a few goes but it went in the end.

7b!  who told you that? Have they done it that way?

I'm 6'1 so if you're 6'3 you shouldn't have a problem.

Good luck!

[Fiend]