[Will Hunt]

What I wrote on UKC:


I'm looking at visiting Berryhill at some point on the weekend of the 22nd with some people from the Leeds Uni Mountaineering Club. There are going to be plenty of beginners on this trip.

Looking in my NMC guidebook it tells me that Berryhill is a "beginner's paradise" but that the rock in some places must be "treated with care".

Rockfax is saying that "much of the rock is soft and/or brittle" and that " it is not an ideal venue for beginners". It also makes the point that abseiling and top roping should not be practiced here but those activities are not what we plan to do.

I'm also aware of having to ask permission to visit this crag and have emailed the local BMC access rep for information about this. I've read that access is very rarely a problem but that the farmer likes to be asked and may direct climbers to use different approaches depending on where he is grazing his stock.


Is there anybody who has been to the crag and can advise from experience on whether this would be a suitable venue? Is the rock significantly more brittle than that at Bowden or Kyloe? I would only be looking at taking 10 to 15 people (a mix of novices and those who can lead) maximum to a crag such as this.

Just to clarify, the impression that I get from the NMC guide is that if the rock on a route is poor then it will say so in the guide. We would then advise members to be wary of climbing these routes, to wear a helmet at all times whilst on the crag, to place plenty of protection even if leading well within your comfort zone and to try and avoid shallow placements.

Would this be enough to avoid the choss?

[SA Chris]

The rock is no softer than any of the other Northumberland Crags, but there are some very fragile flutings, notably on Eastern Arete, which would be fine for experienced leaders to lead and novices to second though.

It's a lovely spot and fairly suited to beginners, but unless you can find a farmer to ask permission, I would have a backup plan. We tried to find someone at the farmhouse at the end of the road, but you will likely have more joy at the cottages on the right. Also there may be stuff going on on the farm that would stop you being able to get to the farm. wellies or hiking boots may be a good idea as part of the approach is through farm buildings where they may be a fair bit of "muck" about

[Will Hunt]

Cheers for the knowledge. Might check it out with more experienced people on the first day and see how it is for the real beginners on the second.

[SA Chris]

Depending on abilities, not sure there is enough to keep 15 busy for a day, not a whole deal under Severe actually. There is also some excellent easy bouldering on the left hand side as well though, not sure if you encourage that sort of thing.

Going to Berryhill would be a lot more pleasant and quieter experience than queuing to do Russett Groove and Castle Crack anyhow.

[Will Hunt]

Going to Berryhill would be a lot more pleasant and quieter experience than queuing to do Russett Groove and Castle Crack anyhow.

My thoughts exactly!