[pete b]

Does anyone have any beta for this problem. The guide says that it's technical and requires a trick move, but doesn't say what the trick is. I got to the lip with my right hand on the pinch and got a heel hook to the right but couldn't get any further. I couldn't find any videos.

[Durbs]

Got the exact same point - I tihnk it's just a monstrous heel-hook turned into a push once you're high enough

[Dr T]

you're in the right position
you need to reach up with your right handto a (v) high crimp
to do this a bit of toe work under the lip with the left foot helps
for me the important thing was moving my left hand from the jug under the roof to a small +ve crimp just uner the lip
gave me enough to reach up
from there it's basically a compression problem with some pretty good holds on the left
can easily be campused from that point
class problem
took me a couple of sessions of no progress years ago then did it 2nd go last year with the extra strenght and noticing the move for the left hand.
hope that helps

[Durbs]

Heh, so I was thinking of completely the wrong problem...

[pete b]

Thanks Dr. When you say compression problem, you mean using the left hand to slap up the left hand side of the arête after getting the high right crimp? I'll give this another go next time I go.

[Dr T]

Thanks Dr. When you say compression problem, you mean using the left hand to slap up the left hand side of the arête after getting the high right crimp? I'll give this another go next time I go.

aye...

[iain]

There's a couple of other methods as well if you're interested. One involves going from the jugs left hand first round the corner to a sloper, jamming the left heel in somewhere and sticking the other heel on the lip further right and then getting the right pinch, and another is similar to Dr T's but goes up the wall from the rh pinch via some dismayingly small crimps made much better by toe/heel hooking under the roof.