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DWS Mallorca (Read 6385 times)

Charles

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DWS Mallorca
September 16, 2010, 11:18:13 pm
I'm off to Mallorca next week  :dance1:

While it is a sport climbing trip, we're setting aside a couple of days to go deep water soloing. I've heard it's pretty damn scary so has anyone got any crag/route recommendations to break my in gently?

Is it a case of, once you fall you realise it's not that bad and get over it?

Cheers.

Paul B

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#1 Re: DWS Mallorca
September 16, 2010, 11:32:45 pm
You didn't mention ability which is quite important?

Some of the crags/routes are intimidating, others aren't. Others aren't as bad as they look.

Cala Sa Nau - quite high
Diablo - intimidating but absolutely fantastic, must do's are Lobster, Afroman, Ejector seat and then onwards
Cala barques - I didn't climb here much because where you have to park wasn't fantastic for leaving our van, its good and has a quite friendly feel when at the beach (check Mallorcan Mankini for a taste).
Portocolom -very friendly, traverse in and then do some juggy roofs not that high above the water to a ledge, if you're bold continue up if you're not jump off.
Tower of the falcons - intimidating and often wet
There was another venue that looked fantastic for Nat, problem is to get in you had to downclimb above a bad (rocky) splashdown and then traverse at the bottom.

If you haven't been before its worth noting that although tidal ranges aren't huge there is some variation. Check that the exit ropes are IN the water and haven't been washed up.

Its also worth leaving places like diablo until early afternoon so that the grease has had time to wear off, you can tell pretty quickly if it'll be alright by how dry the huge threads are on the entrance traverse.

We also had a problem with jellies, the little b*stards hurt. I have the Miguel Riera guide and think as guides go its fairly shoddy.

Robsons

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#2 Re: DWS Mallorca
September 16, 2010, 11:57:18 pm
I am also off to Mallorca from the 2-16th Oct and cannot wait - looks SO good!
Yep, The Lobster and Afroman are definitely on my ticklist...some of the sport routes inland look fapping quality too!
Paul, I've heard Lobster is just a jug fest for 20m...crux at the top...true? GULP?!  :o

Paul B

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#3 Re: DWS Mallorca
September 17, 2010, 12:15:07 am
Paul, I've heard Lobster is just a jug fest for 20m...crux at the top...true? GULP?!  :o

Pretty much - also noted as a downclimb to the central section in the guide. The routes on the LHS of diablo shouldn't be ignored either.

Charles

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#4 Re: DWS Mallorca
September 17, 2010, 07:14:31 am
You didn't mention ability which is quite important?

Forget not everyone is an avid reader of power club... Comfortably onsighting F6c/6c+.

Cheers for the info, Paul. I've got the Riera guide (found one last year - score!) and found it very poor for sport climbing (routes shown where there are no bolts and have never been any etc...) so won't be relying on that for DWS.

 
Is it a case of, once you fall you realise it's not that bad and get over it?
I am inferring you have never done any DWS before ... but maybe that's not what you meant?


No I haven't done any before. I reckon jumping sounds like a good tactic. Cheers.

Johnny Brown

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#5 Re: DWS Mallorca
September 17, 2010, 08:19:58 am
I went last week. I'd recommend Barquez for your first day. lovely spot and the first cave has some amazing 6b-7a routes crossing ridiculous terrain, all quite low, and the exit from the water is easy. Plenty of other routes to go at as well. If you're happy jumping off the top on your first day you should be fine at the bigger venues - took me a good few days to get my head round them!

Gus

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#6 Re: DWS Mallorca
September 17, 2010, 10:52:49 am
I reckon it feels a good deal less intimidating without a team of lunatics with a megaphone at the top shouting things like "down down, drowning, looking shaky" etc!!!!!

Paul B

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#7 Re: DWS Mallorca
September 17, 2010, 01:16:21 pm
I reckon it feels a good deal less intimidating without a team of lunatics with a megaphone at the top shouting things like "down down, drowning, looking shaky" etc!!!!!

Genius.

chummer

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#8 Re: DWS Mallorca
September 17, 2010, 02:14:48 pm
What Johnny Bron said: Cala Barques. All but one of the venues/caves here are perfect for an intro to Mallora DWS, well documented in the 'Deep Water' guide if you want topo's. If you're feeling brave then check out Diablo the next day, but for a couple of relaxing days DWS then Cala Barques is quality with plenty to go at. Worth taking snorkling kit here too. Enjoy!

Charles

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#9 Re: DWS Mallorca
October 06, 2010, 05:58:05 pm
Cala Barques was indeed awesome. Didn't do very much cos I still bricked it like a little girl but had some good fun and falling in (read - lowering feet then letting go) was a treat.

Worth taking snorkling kit here too. Enjoy!

That explains how my brother nearly killed a snorkling german on a lilo then. It must be damned interesting down there if they don't look up as they paddle under a cliff teeming with climbers!


Nike Air

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#10 Re: DWS Mallorca
October 06, 2010, 10:27:37 pm

That explains how my brother nearly killed a snorkling german on a lilo then. It must be damned interesting down there if they don't look up as they paddle under a cliff teeming with climbers!

man that was funny, he just appeared out of nowhere!! He seemed more shocked than Matt tho!!Anychance of getting that photo up on here.

Jordan

Charles

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#11 Re: DWS Mallorca
October 07, 2010, 07:13:26 am


It's a Facebook image so apologies if you can't see it.

SA Chris

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#12 Re: DWS Mallorca
October 07, 2010, 09:57:10 am
Are you either of them?

casa

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#13 Re: DWS Mallorca
October 07, 2010, 01:31:21 pm
quality photo, can't stop myself giggling imagining Mr Lilo's reaction

Charles

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#14 Re: DWS Mallorca
October 07, 2010, 06:33:25 pm
Are you either of them?

See above: falling climber is my brother. Snorkling lilo man was random holiday maker. I was behind the camera looking like this:  :jaw:

quality photo, can't stop myself giggling imagining Mr Lilo's reaction

He hadn't a clue what was going on! Luckily Matt splashed down just next to him, grazing the side of the lilo. There was much gesticulating and then Mr Lilo put his head back in the water and paddled under another climber!

 

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