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finger went crunch, remedies? plus keeping fit when waiting it out (Read 1914 times)

seankenny

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Bouldering at Bowles today I actually felt my finger crunch inside whilst I was hanging/slightly pulling on hold on a crimpy, overhanging wall. It's the big finger of my right hand. It's not swollen now but it does hurt when I make a fist, around the main knuckle and towards the palm - that's the dreaded A2 pulley I think. Before I've always hurt my fingers over a period of time and noticed at the end of the day, as opposed to actually feeling a crunch at the time.

So I guess the routine is lots of ice for a few days, then the Dave McL cold water treatment. But does the fact I've crunched it rather than slowly done it make much difference? Anyone had any luck with the putty stuff?

Also I want to get a bit stronger whilst I'm letting my finger heal. Anyone got some good exercises I can do at home with dumbells? Or at the gym, presuming I can be bothered to find a cheapie in central London and actually go.

I'm sure this has all been covered in depth many times before... feel free to post a link if it has.

chris05

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Its worth checking the wiki and using the search function (A2 turns up 4 pages of results):

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Pulley_Injuries_:_The_Science

Muenchener

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I had the same thing at the beginning of August: left ring finger, slight tearing noise/sensation whilst pulling hard on a crimp with small footholds. No acute pain unless I try to crimp with it - so I don't - but general soreness, stiffness and inflammation which is now, seven weeks later, much better but by no means gone.

What I did:

Ask my GP because he is a climber (otherwise I might not have bothered) He said "we could have a look on the ultrasound and see how much is torn, but sorry I'm too busy for that just now. What grade were you climbing when it happened? OK: you can still climb, but six to eight weeks of two full number grades below that", and  gave me some tips on taping.

Did six weeks of mileage on easy routes, which was frustrating for the first couple of weeks but afterwards quite fun, and I suspect may have done quite a bit for my technique and/or stamina.

For the first three/four weeks I religiously did the half hour cold water thing as recommended by Dave MacLeod daily. Plus lots of massage and stretching whenever I notice it's a bit swollen and stiff. Occasional applications of ibuprofen cream ditto.

Now I'm back more or less where I was pre-injury on steep stuff on big holds, perhaps with better technique / confidence from all the mileage. Still wouldn't contemplate bouldering or trying obviously fingery routes: that feels like it might be a while yet.



seankenny

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Thanks guys.
Muenchener - good to hear you've still been able to climb these past few months. So dispiriting if you can't get out at all. My finger is still very painful. Even holding a pen can hurt it, which is pretty sensitive! Have been icing it lots and that seems to help.

 

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