[Mike Nolan]

I know this isn't really bouldering related, and I would ask on UKC, but it's crap and doesn't seem worth the effort.

I currently flash V4 in Awesome Walls Liverpool and can climb V5 on about the 3rd or 4th attempt. I realise this is indoor, so I'm not trusting this too much. But even so, this isn't bad in my 4th session after an 11 months break from climbing? (I'm 15)

Anyway, I boulder at this sort of level, but I really struggle climbing trad. I on-sighted my first VS the other day, but after it, I was really pumped, and could hardly top rope another route.

What can I do to get past this. How should I train? How often? Would I benefit from soloing about on some EASY ground (4a) for extended periods to build stamina? Any other suggestions?

 I really want to start progressing at bouldering and more importantly, trad, but struggling on VS doesn't really do much for my confidence.

Thanks for any help!:)
Mike

[Mike Nolan]

My post makes it look like I top roped the VS. I lead the VS and wanted to try top roping something a bit harder, but I failed! I could do the moves, but wouldn't of been able to lead it as I was shattered!

[a dense loner]

many questions mike. was it a pumpy vs? were u shitting bricks so holding on harder? did it ave familiar big blue holds bolted all over it? i wouldn't worry about training. take the popp at work approach and just do more climbing on trad. doing v4's at a wall doesn't really mean anything when u take it outside routing, if you're not used to it of course

[Mike Nolan]

Yeah, it seemed slightly pumpy. I think I may of been towards the top, I fumbled around with protection and struggled to get a piece in and ended up being about 3-4m run out on the crux. I know it's not that much, but it seems it when you've not climbed for ages!

Thanks for your help!

[galpinos]

Hi Mike, I might be teaching you to suck eggs but.......

1. You don't seem used to leading or seem out of practice. Because of this you'll be a bit scared, be hanging on too hard, fumbling gear etc. You'll only get better on the sharp end by getting on the sharp end regularly.

2. Bouldering is all well and good, but you need to get route fit for routes. Circuits when you got to the wall of, better, routing will benefit you more than bouldering.

Basically, climb more routes. Get to it!

[slackline]

You can also improve your gear placement selection by wandering along the bottom of a crag and putting gear in.  This way you'll learn how to judge what piece of gear is required for a given placement and select it quicker, reducing the time you're hanging around placing gear (although on routes upto VS you should find that most gear can be placed from positions that aren't too strenuous).

Oh and if you're going to walk along a large section of crag and don't want to loose you're gear, trail a rope clipping into each piece, then you can do a Hansel and Grettel to get it all back.