[matthewj]

The 7a(+) to the left of the popular crack, Phantasmorica or something I think it is called. What is the definitive beta for this? (very low)Ledge-jug-crimp-sidepull (RH), pocket out left and various small stuff to reach top? Moving up again from the sidepull seemed to be the crux. It was well chalked yesterday and this seemed the natural way to do it... (not sure which of the little yellow smiley dudes is appropriate here) Thanks!

[tomtom]

The 7a(+) to the left of the popular crack, Phantasmorica or something I think it is called. What is the definitive beta for this? (very low)Ledge-jug-crimp-sidepull (RH), pocket out left and various small stuff to reach top? Moving up again from the sidepull seemed to be the crux. It was well chalked yesterday and this seemed the natural way to do it... (not sure which of the little yellow smiley dudes is appropriate here) Thanks!

Afraid I've not got a clue about the problem  but was wondering if you could tell me what conditions were like? I'm thinking of heading up to Kentmere at some point this week..

[Gus]

The sequence above sounds right, as you say really hard using lots of tiny snappy hold options. Bit of an eliminate for a 3 star problem!!!

[GCW]

Your sequence sounds about right.  I found there's a reasonable hold on the left higher up that makes it a fair bit easier, so you need to be quite strict and keep to the right for the 7a+.  To be honest, I wasn't that impressed with it 

Hebsonator giving a demo:

[matthewj]

Cheers for that! Did not have same beta as guy in clip. used the funny pocket to left, and thought that both the 3 stars and the grade were a bit optimistic! Now I know why! The top bit looks good in the film but as you say, tricky to eliminate using obvious small holds within reach and defend 3 stars! 6c+/7aish using the left holds?
 
The conditions were great, everything dry, but it caned it down last night, we have been in the fells today and it didn't seem damp anywhere really, good luck!

[tomtom]

Conditions were good this AM though damp/seepage in the wood - but I climbed like a punter, and a friendly/angry Bull  (hard to tell, but I figured looking at me and snorting was not a good omen!) in the Badger Rock field stopped me playing in there after a few mins...