[Fiend]

Am thinking about going away for a week over the Easter week, and looking for info / ideas (and pretty shortly partners, no doubt  ) for somewhere a bit different to go.

The shortlist currently is:

German sandstone
Czech sandstone
Pedriza (+ Patones)
Meteora / Monserrat / Riglos
Lewis
Ireland


All for obvious reasons of different rock and/or general awesomeness.

Any advice on: weather (e.g. I've heard mixed reports about Pedriza in winter/spring), logistics, suitability for a week's climbing, likelihood of persuading anyone to actually go climbing there, and lack of uphill walkins which I can't do??


Or alternative suggestions??

Ta,
Fiend

[Adam Lincoln]

Morocco? (Todra)

[Fiend]

Bit warm I think, and would rather go there on a more planned trip with a friend.

[Paul B]

German Sandstone, do you mean the Pfalz or the other stuff nearer the Czech border (no chalk allowed at some crags)?

The former I found great but the better crags, in terms of lines and bolts (although you're not adverse to trad) seemed to be the harder crags (F7a). Nat found it hard and bold as bolt spacing increased as general difficulty decreased. Short (sub 10 mins walk ins)


Czech, you hear differing opinions on this and being scared of everything I'm probably not the best person to advise. Nic & Tom liked I've been told (but neither are scared of run outs) but I found it dangerous and the fact that the guide is out of print and generally shit to be frustrating. The rock seemed soft to me and every line I tried was a let down compared to the way it looked. For giant towers its stupidly hard to find the correct route, unless you can think like a bird (the flying kind). (A lot of walking around through a forest)

Monserrat is close to Barcelona. Enough said.

Riglos, we both really enjoyed this but its worth bearing in mind that is quite samey, quite polished and if you stray off line you will pull things off. That said, the routes are good and the rock towers are incredible.

The climbing at Vilanova was much better IMO
(5 minutes from car to rock)

ps. have you thought about Vilanova de meia? (brief walk in ~10-15 mins)
pps. all crags with huge vultures circling are amazing
ppps. The verdon tops them all (part at your chosen route, so close you can use your hire car as an anchor  )

[Adam Lincoln]

You would love Fairhead, AND/OR The Burren.

[nik at work]

I'd take you to the Isle of Man, but I'll be in Font along with everybody else.

[Fiend]

Cheers P Biddy.

Sandstone, either the German stuff on the Czech border (Elbenstein?) / the Czech stuff itself, OR the Pfalz, either looks good. Obviously the towers look way more rad and awesome aesthetically, but I am prepared for it being more of a Hard Grit experience rather than a Euro clip-up experience. Point taken about the chalk issue, could be a crucial factor for me!! Do they allow it on the German side?? Pfalz does look cool too tho, would definitely be an appealing option.

Point also taken about the sameiness of Riglos etc. I do think those conglomerate venues might suit a long weekend rather than a full 9 day week. Might be getting a bit warm too??

What is Villanova?


P.S. Adam, yeah, could be options, might need to get fitter tho.

P.S. nik you can take me any time, I like 'em short and hairy

[Paul B]

Cheers P Biddy.

Sandstone, either the German stuff on the Czech border (Elbenstein?) / the Czech stuff itself, OR the Pfalz, either looks good. Obviously the towers look way more rad and awesome aesthetically, but I am prepared for it being more of a Hard Grit experience rather than a Euro clip-up experience. Point taken about the chalk issue, could be a crucial factor for me!! Do they allow it on the German side?? Pfalz does look cool too tho, would definitely be an appealing option.

No not everywhere on ze German side allows chalk from what I was told.
I don't know how you are climbing but I don't think I can stress enough just how spaced the bolts were on anything sub 7a.

Point also taken about the sameiness of Riglos etc. I do think those conglomerate venues might suit a long weekend rather than a full 9 day week. Might be getting a bit warm too??

What is Villanova?

BEHOLD:
Some single pitch as well nearby, good climbers bar. Higher up in terms of altitude so it'll be cooler.


9 days at Riglos? I certainly wouldn't. The heat didn't really bother us there, but as you can see there's not a lot of shade.

[SA Chris]

My only comments are - Burren is ace.

Lewis is ace too. Rock quality is stunning, as is scenery and everything besides the climbing.

At the mercy of the weather for both.

[Bonjoy]

There's loads of other single and multi pitch areas near Villanova too. Pretty close to Terradets which with the exception of Bruixes wall is virtually all long multipitch stuff.

[Bonjoy]

My only comments are - Burren is ace.

The Burren is indeed ace, but if you want something really different how about the nearby Aran Islands. Same rock as the Burren but about twenty times as much of it and only about 50 recorded routes.

[SA Chris]

Sure Aran Islands are great, but am only speaking from experience about Burren. No idea if logistics of Aran Islands make it worth a trip, I was only in Claire for surfing and did a bit of climbing while there. FWIW I quite liked Murroughkilly as well as Ailadie.

[duncan]

Morocco? (Todra)

I thought Todra was a bit mediocre.  Morocco in general, and Marrakesh in particular, is a great place to visit but the climbing not a patch on numerous euro-sport venues (I realise that is not the only criteria).
 
Lewis is a stunning place and culturally at least as interesting / different to (the rest of) the UK as Morocco!  Easter might be a bit of a risk with the weather.  If you want to wait a little, my dim recollection is that northern Lewis was not too midgy in summer but down near Harris it was a different story. 

Insect overlord No.2 has been to most of the places you mention and should be able to comment.   I've not been but I'd be thinking Czech towers if I had the time and climbing ability (currently a big fat zero for both). 

[Fiend]

No not everywhere on ze German side allows chalk from what I was told.
I don't know how you are climbing but I don't think I can stress enough just how spaced the bolts were on anything sub 7a.

I reckon I could give 7a a reasonable go. I'm not too bothered about space bolts, as you can tell I'm not after a typical bolt-clipping trip!

[chillax]

I second Adam's suggestion of Fair Head. Have you been before? Fantastic climbing/atmosphere/surroundings. Not much in the way of a walk in either. And if you're solid at E2 (which you undoubtedly are) its the magic grade. Theres loads to go at and its all quality. Of course theres plenty above and below that too. As an added bonus (from my perspective anyway) you're unlikely to meet more than 2 or 3 other teams on the entire (roughly 3 mile long) crag.





It is in Ireland though, so usual weather caveats apply. Was out last sunday for the first routes of the year and it was still a bit nippy, but should be fine in a week or 2.

[AndyR]

I did the first routes on the Aran back in - gulp - 1986, and have been back since. It is a little like the Burren but limited along a lot of its length by being massively undercut above the sea, very blank and/or too obscenely scary. Anyway, IMO: a summer venue.

Pah - Joss Lynam did all those back in the 60s. In hob nailed boots.

[AndyR]

There is plenty of pleasingly esoteric sport limestone in the cantabrian mts between Oviedo and Leon in Northern Spain - temperature will likely be good that time of year, no chance of crowds either. Have no clue regarding guidebooks I'm afraid - just followed the bolts where the lines looked good.....

[soapy]

corsica in the low season

[Paul B]

Calanques?

[220bpm]

Pah - Joss Lynam did all those back in the 60s. In hob nailed boots.

That geezer from the West Wing? Learn something everyday on this site 

[Fiend]

Soapy, a very fine suggestion but did Corsica a few years back. Definitely the sort of different vibe I'm after tho, word.

[slackline]

Soapy, a very fine suggestion but did Corsica a few years back. Definitely the sort of different vibe I'm after tho, word.

Done Sardinia yet?

Had a great time there in autumn, lots of variety to go at from (virtually) roadside cragging to multi-pitch clip-ups (if you don't get lost mid-route!) and also coastal stuff.  There's a certain member of the forums who's very familiar with the area (and worth contacting if you're considering heading there).

[chriss]

I have been to the Czech sandstone towers before & it's stunning, so it the whole country. I found some of the climbing intimidating, even within my grade, but I'm not that bold anyway. I also did some random sport stuff on shabby bolts, but can't recall much about it.

Also think I read somewhere the chalk thing has been relaxed on stuff 7a & up, but would check it yourself.