[BenF]

Right then, so I finally trekked up the hill to this boulder problem and found it all perfectly reasonable apart from the first move off the deck.  From the first big slopey shelf feature the climbing was fine but to get to it from the sitter was desperate, with basically a huge move from a range of starting holds and then cut loose.  No one managed the first move.  Anybody got any suggestions about starting positions, making the slap and avoiding the cut loose? 

As an aside, it's a great boulder problem, a real meaty big line in a wonderful spot.  And the highball, slopey arete just below Lily Savage is fantastic too and its well worth the walk for this alone. 

Thanks.

[JohnM]

Sorry can't remember any details but it does come down to a powerful pull on and slap to the first slopey shelf which I remember cutting into my finger pads after a few failed attempts.  I'm sure someone will have more specifics on the move.

[BenF]

I remember cutting into my finger pads after a few failed attempts.

Yup, that sounds about right, just couldn't a) bear the pain of the hitting the edge or b) stick it without hitting the floor with my feet.

Still not sure which holds are best to start from, so we'll see if anyone else has been arsed walking all that way.  Thanks for the response though John, I figured you'd have tried it.

[BenF]

Thanks Gruff.  Again, that seems right, but leaves me with a huge move and a really hard cut loose.  I was sure that there must be some trickery to reduce the swing and  to reduce the pain from slapping the edge.  Oh well, I'll stagger back up there and give it some more welly.

[BenF]

In case anyone's interested or finds this thread looking for beta in the future...  Went back and climbed Lily Savage this weekend, pretty steady at 7b in the end.  Two slightly different start sequences...  both start with left hand on a decent sidepull, plus right hand either on a layaway/sidepull or on a low undercut.  Then slap to the first big slopey ledge and continue onwards and upwards.

Lots of other stuff got climbed up there this weekend too, some of it quite hard and including a lefthand exit to Lily Savage.  All good.

[nodder]

Lots of other stuff got climbed up there this weekend too, some of it quite hard and including a lefthand exit to Lily Savage.  All good.

We want details, well I am intrested

[BenF]

And indeed you should be interested.  Photos and details are being sent to Simon as soon as Mick has time to email him. 

Edit: I'm dead busy at the moment and realise that my post doesn't give much away, but will post a bit more info when I get a chance later.

[BenF]

Right ho, I've got five minutes to spare... 

Basically, I took Mick "climbing machine" Adams up to the Lily Savage block, showed him a couple of lines I'd tried the week before and he sent everything in sight. 

First off a harder left hand finish to LS which powers out left from the second big slopey shelf thing, using a good crack to reach the lip of the roof.  Awesome finish to the original.

Then the left arete of the LS block, from sitting.  Mick thought maybe 8a for this and its damn scary as you need to fill the deep chasms with pads and then persuade your spotters to balance above the drop as the climber swings out to the lip with a potential horrendous fall for everyone, right down to the ground on the level below (if you've been up there you'll understand what I mean).

Next up the left arete of the lower tier, which I'd done from standing the week before but failed to do from sitting.  Anyway, Mick soon despatched the sitter at about 7c.  This is a brilliant line, so big you can probably see it from the road and has no doubt been climbed many times previously from standing.

We also climbed many other easier lines which have probably been climbed before, including the obvious and ace fin thing on the lower tier (starting from the low shelf at about 6c/7a) and a horrid/great mantel just right of the fin (grade: scrape+).  The caveat of "probably climbed before" must of course be added yet again to all but the harder things I just described.  However, all this stuff is good and should entice more people up there.  Plus there's tonnes of potential still on that hillside...

Anyway, photos and better descriptions should soon be on NWB.

[fatneck]

Et voila!
That arete looks mint!

[nodder]

Nice one.  They look cool.  Tried to try the arete with CJD once we got scared I think.

[BenF]

Nice one.  They look cool.  Tried to try the arete with CJD once we got scared I think.

They are all cool and I'm not surprised you were scared... I was shitting myself just spotting Mick.  We could all have ended up in a mess down by the lower tier.

The lefthand finish to Lily Savage is definitely worth doing, probably a better finish than the original to be honest.  Maintains the difficulty rather than escaping out right.

[Monolith]

Looking forward to checking that area out over easter Ben. Glad to see you've been beavering away as ever mate.

[andy_e]

As if you'd leave your flat for anywhere other than tremierchion, pantymywn and some dirty techno venue.

[Monolith]

Good point well made quarry boy!