[Omar15]

Hey guys,

I was wondering if you could help me...sometimes i boulder on consecutive days but recently I've found the session on the second day makes my forearms really hurt. They get pumped quite quickly and then feel like they're breaking inside or something. This sort of stays until the pain stops me climbing and then gradually leaves throughout the day.

I'm thinking its related to climbing the first day but when I started climbing (about a year ago) it didn't seem to happen. Do i need to warm down more? Does anyone else get this?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Omar

[Three Nine]

assume this is Mr Rose? warm up more gradually perhaps and generally give your body a chance to catch up and adapt to what you're demanding of it?

[Omar15]

Yup, thats me! Who's this?! And yeah, what you're saying makes sense! I'd like to know whats happening inside my arms though...I'll try warming up and down for longer and see if that makes a difference.

[slackline]

I'd like to know whats happening inside my arms though...

Here let me google that for you 

 (Jasper, you missed out on another opportunity to lmgtfy  )

[Omar15]

Thats all well and good slack---line, im fairly sure its not flash pump though. Basically because it feels like my forearms are tearing rather than being overly pumped.

Thanks for your input.

[slackline]

Thats all well and good slack---line, im fairly sure its not flash pump though. Basically because it feels like my forearms are tearing rather than being overly pumped.

Are you The Hulk?

Thanks for your input.

No problem, t'was a pleasure 

Probably worth checking out some of GCW's posts about the difficulty of providing diagnoses over t'internet (albeit medical ones, but the same is said by physio's and this sounds as though really its quite a specific problem despite the relatively vague description of "tearing forearms").

[magpie]

it feels like my forearms are tearing rather than being overly pumped.

I get that, but generally after I've had a longish break or go at stuff too hard.  I think it's just that you've pulled and stretched the tendons and stuff a lot so they get very achey the next day, especially if you try and climb more, it might work to ease yourself in a bit easier or not pull so hard [/crap girl advice which will be dismissed by the boys], warming up and down more could definitely help too, that way you won't be straining the muscles and tendons so much.

[SA Chris]

is it in your brachioradialis, or lower down (google it).

[Omar15]

Chris - its not really a specific pain, more over the whole forearm.

In case anyone else is reading this with the same thing and is looking for a solution, I saw a physio the other day and he said my forearm muscles are really really tight which is why they've been hurting so much.

Omar

[The Sausage]

Most likely it's some sort of compartment syndrome. Basically, muscles (or groups of muscles) are encased in membrane - compartments. Any inflammation will increase pressure within that compartment. This can cause aching from the internal pressure, and will obviously have an impact on blood flow to the muscles, causing pain associated with lack of oxygen.

It sounds like you need to rest between sessions for longer. You've not been climbing very long and you need time to adapt.

[tomtom]

As a rule I find that I cannot climb for more than three days a week for a sustained period of time. Something breaks or strains. Unless I'm on holiday climbing I tend to have at least 1 day off in between.
However, it sounds like this is going to be a hard plan to follow - so try doing different types of climbing - go for big hold overhangy type things that work shoulders/core one day, then more thin, vertical crimpy things another day that will work your forearms more... and you dont have to climb to destruction (the point of physical no can do no more) every time.... quite often I go, and after an hour just feel worked out enough or its not working too well and leave it for the next time...
T

[mrjonathanr]

Most likely it's some sort of compartment syndrome. Basically, muscles (or groups of muscles) are encased in membrane - compartments. Any inflammation will increase pressure within that compartment. This can cause aching from the internal pressure, and will obviously have an impact on blood flow to the muscles, causing pain associated with lack of oxygen.

It sounds like you need to rest between sessions for longer. You've not been climbing very long and you need time to adapt.

I'd heed this advice.

[SA Chris]

Wonder if a bit of strething might help?

[magpie]

I saw a physio the other day and he said my forearm muscles are really really tight which is why they've been hurting so much.

Sounds like stretching is the way forward then.

[SA Chris]

Then we are agreed then. Magpie and I, in our non-existent medical opinion recommend a 7 day course of stretching, 3 times a day before meals. If symptoms persist, consult your GP.

[Omar15]

Yo,

Thanks for the replies chaps - I had a sports massage yesterday which hurt quite a lot - I hope its sorted out some of the tightness. I try and stretch after every session at the moment...but what you said Sausage is interesting. Maybe in the last year my guns have grown faster than those compartments can accomodate?

In terms of taking more rest days - uggh. Im loving climbing at the moment and I've made such good gains in the last year the thought of not climbing as much doesn't really inspire me. I'll try and up the sleep and protein and see if i can get away with it...

Thanks for your replies guys

Omar

[The Sausage]

Perhaps a more 'graphic' explanation of what MAY be happening will help to convince you that resting isn't such a bad idea. What you have may be similar to what causes 'growing pains'/shin splints. Basically, you are putting more tension through the forearm muscles than they are used to (this is what happens when your bones grow, and it takes time for the muscles to catch up - they lengthen in response to the stretch caused by the lengthening bones).

These muscles attach to the forearm bones over quite large areas. Due to the increased tension along the whole musculo-tendinous unit, the muscles are effectively pulling themselves off the bone. It may be that the membrane covering the bone is also pulling away, possibly bringing small fragments of bone with it (as with 'shin splints'). This will also cause inflammation, which will be contributing to the overall pain picture and general debilitating-ness of things.

Basically, by constantly putting this tension through the forearm muscles, they won't get a chance to heal, and you'll just keep exacerbating the problem. And, as with any musculo-skeletal injury, dealing with it in the acute stage is far preferable to tipping it into a chronic problem, which will probably rear its ugly head whenever you up the intensity in the future.

Be creative, there are plenty of things you can do that will benefit your climbing without pulling on holds - core, stretching, aerobic fitness, learn french so you can move to font. You could try decreasing the overall intensity - climbing outside, endurance training, and maintain the number of days on that way. Whatever you do, don't be in denial about it. Throttle back and let it get better. Training at 75% is a waste of time anyway.

If you're at a loose end, you could always get a good book. or wank more.

[i_a_coops]

Are you The Hulk?

Yes. Yes he is. The pull up bar bends when he's cranking out one-armers.

(I'm jealous.)

[Omar15]

sausage - thanks for that, thats really informative. i only just read that post - i wish i had done a few months ago when my forearms were more painful. what you're saying makes sense - i eased back a bit and my forearms manned up with the net effect that its not really a problem anymore. plus i got a girlfriend so stopped needing to wank eighty times an hour.

ian - hahaha.

[The Sausage]

Good news all round then!