[Nibile]

so, by the look of things I may be going back to Magic Wood in June, and given that I have a very small experience of the place, I am asking for some suggestion. I want to climb an 8a but don't know many. I don't really like anything on the Bruno boulder, except maybe Massive Attack.
I was thinking about Octopussy, but the moves to the left seemed a bit reachy from the vids, or maybe Sofa Surfer, seemed well basic.
I am looking for something that could suit my climbing style (if that's a style).
thanks a lot.

[RASTATA]

ok let's see
Astronautenfieber in bach sector is amazing tall crimpy arete, Octopussy is ok unless you are very very small (you have many methods how to do finish) then Jack's boroken heart 8a/a+ is basic power problem just next to it. Sofa surfer is very good, but it's very friction dependent so maybe not so good in June. Muttertag another basic 3 moves long problem which also look super good. Left & right hand of darkness 7c+/8a and 8a/a+ very cool roof, same start into two different topouts. Electroboogie 8a/a+ amazing slopy thing if you like slopers. And many many more, MW is full of 8a!! 

[RASTATA]

oh and don't bother with Bruno block unless you wanna do Supernova & Cote de Sechuan or the whole Never ending story... just save it for the rainy days!!

[Paul B]

Jack's broken heart is ruined by its dabtastic nature.
Right hand of darkness, juggy crimps in a roof with one big move.
Electroboogie looks amazing

Whats the 8a just left of Pura Vida?

[RASTATA]

you mean the thing that have the same start as Pura vida but top out direct?
it's called Schneesturm / Snowstrom 7c+ / 8a

[Stubbs]

Jack's Broken Heart has your name all over it Lore!



Where is it dabby Paul?

[Paul B]

if your feet cut near the end you dab the block

[dobbin]

Left or right hand of darkness? A bit log but very doable.

I thought I could do One summer in paradise when I went on my stag do, i.e. although not 8a, it seemed acheivable... same bloc as pura vida etc. many pads required.

Listen to RASTATA - he speaks the truth!

[account_inactive]

Pura Vida and Snow Storm both share that stupid abitary start.  One summer in Paradise is definbitley the tick.  Octolog would only be hard for you to swing your left foot across, but it's also done with a right (marginal) heel hook.  Muttertag may suit you as it's only 3 moves.  Astronautenfieber and Jacks both have high (for you) top outs so probably would not suit.  The roof of darkness is indeed log and boils down to one painful move that helps if you are light.

[Doylo]

I thought the darkness roof was quite cool.apart from that pocket on the crux that is!

[Stubbs]

There's a smallish crimp just above the pocket now, not sure if this used to be there, but you don't have to use the pocket if you don't want to any more.

[Andy B]

Monkeyboy and I both used the pocket when we did these, and thought that pulling through off it was the crux. If the crimp was useable then, I defo would have chosen that rather than a two finger first joint vertical drag. I went back in there in August to do the problem that tops out through the other exit and saw the crimp above the pocket. I suspect it will have been brushed into play out of the soft rock. I also think that these are cool problems. Better in my opinion than stuff like Octopussy and Massive Attack.

[account_inactive]

Massive attack is indeed Massive log