[Omega]

Anyone know the scoop on this problem?  Looked like it had seen a lot of attention yesterday but I can't find any reference to it in the guide, on the web yada yada yada.

Anyone on here done it?  which side of the arete do you climb?  Seemed about 7b from the lefthand side (not that I did it, mind).  beta? name? grade?

[dave]

is it the thing in the left of this photo? i didn't know it had been done but its an obvious project. i suppose being above that rock means it the only problem with a guaranteed dry landing.

[Omega]

correct.

looks like there are two ways to go at it.  up the right hand side with a big dyno off some small crimpers, or around to the left, with a 'feet up high and unwind' slap for the top.

indeed, the landing was dry.

btw, nice photo - hot pants?

[dave]

i can only imagine those shorts must have been painted on. i hope that photo cam from the mid-90s otherwise its inexcusable.

[Jim]

i can only imagine those shorts must have been painted on. i hope that photo cam from the mid-90s otherwise its inexcusable.

Inexcusable whenever the photo was taken

[dave]

come to think about it, that photo is probably covered by the obscene publications act. :shock:

[grimer]

don't think that's ever been done. The rock makes the landing feel a bit sketchy

[Bonjoy]

As far as i know it still awaits an ascent. Tried it a while back, seemed like a goer at an affordable grade, but landing sketchy. Bring all your mates pads, make a platform and a classic problem could be yours!

[Omega]

may have to have a crack at this some time soon then - certainly a good looking line

[Johnny Brown]

fairly easy to get high, but sticking the top (let alone doing anyting with it) is a different matter. Definitely gonna be worth at least 7c.

don't think its been done, but very well brushed

[Bonjoy]

Have just seen a posting on CT from Dave K saying he has done a prob up the RH side of the prow. No name/grade/fuller description offered. RH side of prow could mean the prow itself or a variant on the wall using prow holds :?

[Johnny Brown]

pretty sure this will involve climbing the wall, rather than the prow itself, on a selection of dirty little grattons. Have seen people get high on this, but not really arsed about it myself. The way I was trying it involves full-on hugging up the prow.

[dave k]

No. Its a fine arete problem. Take the arete on the RHS. Left hand side pull on a fairly good hold. Right hand on a good crimp. Work the feet up and turn the left hand into an undercling. Then reach up and if you are less than  6.3 then its a short but off balance pop to the top.(I am 5.9) Probably 7b.

I  expect it been done. If not then i am a happy chap. The eagle stone is a damn fine boulder. It would have to be  another Beagle Problem- "Beagle Eagle"

Still a project on the left hand side of the arete, I agree with the grade about 7c, although I can hardly get off the ground on it.