[mrjonathanr]

Planning on visiting Main Cliff tomorrow and have never been.

Is there any basic advice about good warm up routes, how best to access the routes, abseils, what to be wary of etc that anyone would care to share?

I have the old Gogarth guide (the one with AP on The Bells on cover). Was thinking Strand, Strike, Gogarth, Positron might be good routes. Would prefer to avoid serious routes.

Many thanks in advance, especially for any wise words regarding safe access to routes.

Tomorrow Low tide is 9am, High is 3pm.

Will arrive at crag midday - will access to base of routes be an issue?

(PS Have done a couple of routes in Wen Zawn, that's it).

[Johnny Brown]

Don't rush down in the morning for the proper main cliff routes e.g Positron, they are frequently damp at the bottom. They soon dry out when the sun comes round in the afternoon, a massive chalk bag and being boiling hot are all part of the experience. Though you could do the strand etc which are on the upper tier i.e higher up, but I've tended to do something at south stack if we get an early start, then main cliff later. The descent path passes is pretty obvious but needs care. Not many are keen enough to do two main cliff routes in a day. Gogarth itself is brilliant.

[mrjonathanr]

Thanks JB.

A couple of questions more if you don't mind.  Are top outs straightforward? Was also wondering if tide would affect access...and South Stack - could the Moon be a good intro?

Thanks again.

[Jerry Morefat]

A couple of questions more if you don't mind.  Are top outs straightforward? Was also wondering if tide would affect access...and South Stack - could the Moon be a good intro?

The top outs are very straightforward, cake-walks compared to Swanage. Some of the routes on main cliff involve wading through gorse bushes  for 50m or so at the top. Not much fun, but pretty straightforward.

The Moon would be an excellent introduction to south stack and a good option with a high tide.

As JB says, it's best to leave the big main cliff routes like Positron until at least mid afternoon after the sun has had chance to burn off the smeg. With a high tide at 3pm, this could be problematic for you. You can of cause climb these routes in the morning they're just likely to be a bit harder and scarier. Or alternately do something more within your grade where the smeg won't be so much of an issue.

[Johnny Brown]

As Jerry says, you don't really top out the crag just degenerates into hillside. Usually half a pitch or more of scrambling.

The Moon is mega, non-tidal and gets the sun from late morning. It is quite intimidating in places if you haven't got your head into the rock and the environment, but it is permanently chalked up. Very traversy so your partner needs to be up to it.

There are easier and less serious routes next door at Castell Helen for an easier warm up. Atlantis/ Freebird is one of the best.

[TobyD]

The Moon would be an excellent introduction to south stack and a good option with a high tide.

South Stack (yellow wall in particular) is very sheltered and can be very warm if the sun is out. The Moon is amazing. The Savage (line of abseil) is also a great introduction, albeit not as good as the Moon.
First routes I did on Main Cliff were Rat Race and Positron; they are both excellent routes. Winking Crack is also often overlooked. I thought it every bit as good as the Strand, and the wide bit is not that bad at all really, if you have any crack experience whatsoever. Run fast... is a very friendly upper tier E5 with perfect gear and decent rock if you are after that sort of thing.

[Fiend]

The approach path is the crux of Gogarth main cliff except perhaps for Exctinction.

I like South Stack better in general. Easy choss on big holds, topping out amongst picnicers and bird-watchers.

[Wood FT]

2nded JB's advice on warming up at castel helen, there's also a route down there called 'Hanging out at Glastonbury' which I can't recomend highly enough. E4 6a (4 pitches), Safe and committing with two brilliant pitches entering and exiting the hanging boxed-in slab. You could ab in to a hanging stance halfway up atlantis if the tide is in. Just in case you don't make it to main cliff. Have a great time. 

This is the wild 3rd pitch http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=98305

[ashtond6]

or Rhoscolyn!

[fatboySlimfast]

If youve not been before, down to gear up spot and walk down to do Emulator, top out under upper tier and do something there like maybe fail safe or eternal optimist. Back to kit and refreshment then take on a main cliff route.

You know all about sea cliffs, just watch the wash from the sea cat leaving holyhead

[mrjonathanr]

Thanks all, some helpful stuff there, appreciated.

Fatboy- if you're around we should meet up sometime for a boulder/ climb, will give you a shout.

[duncan]

Tomorrow Low tide is 9am, High is 3pm.

Will arrive at crag midday - will access to base of routes be an issue?

Whilst the platform at the base of Positron / Rat Race is non-tidal, getting around the base of the Gogarth pinnacle to access those routes (and those further left) is problematic at high tide, especially if there is a sea running. If I remember correctly it is possible to climb the first pitch of Gogarth and do a short abseil or climb down to the platform. Alternatively, do Emulator or Resolution Direct as a warm-up, neither are tidal. When the sea has gone down a little, in the late afternoon, the big routes further left will be in their best condition having had the sun for a few hours.

All the famous routes on the Main Cliff I've done have lived up to their reputation for quality and none of them have been poorly protected (I've not been on any of the 1980s or 90s routes). I'd put Ordinary Route slightly above Positron since the latter's second pitch - and technical crux - is slightly contrived.

[duncan]

Sylvia Fitzpatrick's website has some very useful information and phototopos from the recent Gogarth North guide. Of course you should buy the guide itself.

http://www.rockclimbingcompany.co.uk/Gogarth_Precis.pdf

http://www.rockclimbingcompany.co.uk/Main_Cliff-CB+Emulator.pdf

http://www.rockclimbingcompany.co.uk/Main_Cliff-Gogarth-Citadel.pdf

[mrjonathanr]

Thank you. Trip postponed due to weather so went to Kilnsey instead. The info here will be very useful in the near future however 

[Duncan campbell]

Bit late now but it never rains at Gogarth... Take that with whatever quantity of salt you see fit...

[Paul B]

I had a brilliant day doing the Moon and surrounding routes, they're bloody brilliant. Nat barely blinked seconding too.

[Joepicalli]

Are you sure you JH and I weren't down there in the late 80's? If not who did I do Citadel with?

[mrjonathanr]

Tricky for me to answer that Joe as I wasn't there 

Maybe old man o t' mountains old Man o the Sea?

[slackline]

Gogarth South guide printing error recall

Got mine from Hitch-n-Hike, they haven't got the new ones in yet though (but then it was only announced yesterday).