UKBouldering.com

Chimes crimp broken (Read 3599 times)

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1683
  • Karma: +77/-2
Chimes crimp broken
August 01, 2009, 04:26:21 pm
The glued crimp before the Chimes sloper exploded off today in awe at the power of a certain visiting Prestonian  :lol:. I have it and will stick it back on when I get my hands on some sika. Don't let this put anybody off doing it in the meantime - it is only a little harder going straight to the flat crimp with the RH and then straight through to the sloper.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
#1 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 01, 2009, 05:56:09 pm
Is this the left-hand crimp in the niche? If so this fell off a couple of years ago, and Stone glued it back on the wrong way round, which may be the reason it fell off again. If you do glue it back, please can it go on the right way round this time, as its natural position was much more comfy to hold.

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1683
  • Karma: +77/-2
#2 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 01, 2009, 06:15:04 pm
yes, thats the hold - sure, I'll make sure it goes back on the right way.

dave

  • Guest
#3 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 01, 2009, 08:10:21 pm
this fell off a couple of years ago, and Stone glued it back on the wrong way round

That's dynamite.

SiWitcher

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 24
  • Karma: +0/-0
#4 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 02, 2009, 12:13:37 pm
Don't let this put anybody off doing it in the meantime - it is only a little harder going straight to the flat crimp with the RH and then straight through to the sloper.

Does it need glueing back on at all? Would it be so bad to let the route evolve and give people a new challenge?

Just a thought.
Simon

dave

  • Guest
#5 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 02, 2009, 06:42:51 pm
there's sequences that don't even use that hold anyway.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4948
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#6 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 03, 2009, 05:26:21 pm
Went back today and did it without the hold, tiny tiny bit harder but nothing major. Looks a bit unsightly where it was mind.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#7 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 03, 2009, 05:57:25 pm
Was it some fatty pulling too hard on it?  He'll get a reputation as a bit of a hold smasher  :lol:

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4948
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#8 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 03, 2009, 05:59:47 pm
Was it some fatty pulling too hard on it?  He'll get a reputation as a bit of a hold smasher  :lol:

That was the third hold i have broke in a week.  :shrug:

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#9 Re: Chimes crimp broken
August 03, 2009, 08:03:45 pm
stone should get a honorary wad point, for many things really but mostly glueing a hold upside down. does anyone know if he attached bock's head?

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1683
  • Karma: +77/-2
#10 Re: Chimes crimp broken
September 22, 2009, 05:17:06 pm
I glued the crimp back on this afternoon. Adjust your sequences accordingly!

It wasn't possible to put it back on the 'right' way (ie. how it was before it was last glued on) due to the way the old sika had set. It is now how it was in August.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal