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Tendonitis & judging recovery (Read 1930 times)

i.munro

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Tendonitis & judging recovery
September 28, 2009, 06:08:06 pm
I'm just recovering from a second bout of tendonitis ( golfers elbow) last summer it was the other arm  >:(

Anyway I now seem to actually be able to put some effort in at the wall
perhaps 95%  on everything aprt from incuts.

However the tendon attachment still feels quite tender if prodded & I think this wasn't the case last time. Anybody else had tendonitis & remember this & did they rest more or carry on climbing or what?

 

duncan

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#1 Re: Tendonitis & judging recovery
September 29, 2009, 06:55:41 pm
I don't think local tenderness matters very much, especially when you've had a problem for some time or a previous related problem.  The mechanism might be central sensitization. link - a bit technical I'm afraid.

From experience personally, and with patients, a little discomfort during rehabilitation is no bad thing with tendon problems as long as it is short-lived.  Get the ice on after if you're not sure.  Feeling sore the following day usually means you've overdone things.

Good luck.

i.munro

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#2 Re: Tendonitis & judging recovery
September 30, 2009, 03:07:49 pm
Thanks for the link. Perhaps that is what's been happening.
What has been worrying me is tenderness ( to any contact) around the tendon insertion & the fact that it didn't seem to be related to climbing in any way (ie just as bad during a session 5 mins after  or a week later) .

I finally seem to be getting some improvement though.
I guess that means we've seen the last of the sun for this year  :(

duncan

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#3 Re: Tendonitis & judging recovery
September 30, 2009, 08:13:26 pm
What has been worrying me is ... the fact that it didn't seem to be related to climbing in any way (ie just as bad during a session 5 mins after  or a week later) .

So climbing is not making it any worse </glass half-full>.

Sounds like you could try gradually increasing the volume and then intensity.


i.munro

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#4 Re: Tendonitis & judging recovery
October 02, 2009, 01:12:01 pm

Sounds like you could try gradually increasing the volume and then intensity.

Thanks ,that's what I have been doing & the soreness seem to be finally going.
I was just worried that I might be overdoing. I really  :'( don't want this back again next summer. I have too few summers left to waste any more :boohoo:

mrjonathanr

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#5 Re: Tendonitis & judging recovery
October 04, 2009, 08:11:27 pm
Sometimes discomfort is a bit inexplicable. If it deteriorates, you need to scale down/do rehab exercises. I'm sure you're familiar with this: http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf.
Discomfort can just be background or fade away all on its own. I wouldn't worry too much if it isn't of a level to inhibit your climbing.

 

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