[rodma]

I just found this by accident, but it's got a lot of good maths and info in it

http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm

Sorry if it's been posted before

[dave]

its a bit of a dry read but soem interesting shit - particularly about staples, and particularly pegs.

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, lots of good info on this site. Read most of it a while back. Do bear in mind that it's written by someone running a company manufacturing and selling bolts and as such the info is biased towards pushing their own design.

[nik at work]

It's all about glue-ins or have I missed the expansion bolts bit?
If you wanted to use expansion bolts is there a special particular type of expansion bolt to be used or can you just get any from Screwfix?
(Thinking UK limestone, well in fact I'm not really thinking of anything in particular but if I was it would be UK limestone, just more out of curiosity as much as anything else)

[Bonjoy]

I'm not sure if you could source 12mm stainless through-bolts (the industry term for what we call expansion bolts) from Screwfix. I get them through a local fixing specialist who have to order them in, minimum order being a box of 50. You then have to get the hangers seperately from someone like Petzl or Fixe. The hanger manufactures also sell complete units but these generally work out a fair bit more expensive and are often quite short bolts which aren't ideal if the rock is less than 100%.

[nik at work]

Cheers Bonjoy. How long a bolt would you use?

[dave]

(Thinking UK limestone, well in fact I'm not really thinking of anything in particular but if I was it would be UK limestone, just more out of curiosity as much as anything else)

you've got a mate in the slammer who's thinking about bolting something, right?

[Bonjoy]

You want something at least 90mm, preferable 100mm I think, but don't ask me for any science to justify those dimensions.
Some very good info from the BMC for people thinking of doing some bolting http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2411

[nik at work]

Cheers Bonjoy. My next question would be what grade of stainless? There seems to be many different grades/types of grades (A2, A4, 316, 318) and it's not something I know an awful lot about so a pointer or two would be welcome (for my friend in the slammer of course).

[Jaspersharpe]

"You're arskin a lotta queshtuns aintcha?"

[nik at work]

And that BMC link provided a lot of answers. Nothing to see here, move along.

[rodma]

Do bear in mind that it's written by someone running a company manufacturing and selling bolts and as such the info is biased towards pushing their own design.

Yeah, I was looking for chain and Maillons when I found the page 

I liked the fact that they were explaining that the quoted breaking loads for some equipment were bogus, although that is a little worrying

[ChrisC]

... I was looking for chain and Maillons ...

These are pretty cheap at the moment.  About the same price as 2 hangers, 2 maillons and some chain I reckon:

http://www.ep-uk.com/store/product/58/120

[rodma]

... I was looking for chain and Maillons ...

These are pretty cheap at the moment.  About the same price as 2 hangers, 2 maillons and some chain I reckon:

http://www.ep-uk.com/store/product/58/120

Good find, unfortunately I wasn't looking for chain to equip routes with.